Wyoming Roundup

Backcountry Ice Skating

2012-01-03T14:05:00.000-08:00

By Dina Mishev

There’s not a ton of snow for skiing right now. The way I see it, there are two options: 1) continue to chip away at the base of my skis, or 2) find something other than skiing to do until it snows some more.

Option 2 it was.

Years and years ago when I used to ice climb regularly, I once brought ice skates in addition to climbing gear to Lake Louise in the northeastern Wind Rivers outside of Dubois.

On that long-ago winter trip, on day one I climbed an intermediate, multi-pitch ice climb, The Gully, just above the lake. That night was spent in a tent on an isthmus that pinches Lake Louise in half. I didn’t put my skates inside my sleeping bag, but did wrap them inside a puffy jacket.

I woke up the next morning ready to channel my inner Nancy Kerrigan.

Putting the skates on though, I was more Tonya Harding. They were flipping cold inside. If any of the bighorn sheep that call that area home suffered through the stream of foul words that then spewed from my mouth, I’m still sorry. There was no skating done.

Remembering how beautifully smooth a frozen Lake Louise is, last week I decided to once again try my luck with backcountry ice skating.

The hike to Lake Louise can be done in regular hiking boots. At most there were several inches of snow on the trail.

Lake Louise is two miles, 800 vertical feet, an hour away, and, if your hike is anything like ours, several slips on glacially-polished granite from the trailhead. (As you get closer to the lake, the rock is more and more polished. By the time you’re at the lake, the rocks are counter-top smooth.)

We heard the lake crying out well before we reached the boulders ringing the shore. Did you know lake ice makes sounds? (This link has nothing to do with Lake Louise, but the sounds are similar to those I’ve heard there.)

I’ve heard Louise moan before — a deep, rumbling that I anthropomorphized to her emitting sighs of contentment — but this was a different noise. A giant creature living beneath the ice was alerting us that it was trapped. It pounded on the ice’s underside every minute or so.

Maybe not really, but that is what it sounded like.

So Lake Louise wasn’t quite as smooth as in my memory. The ice had buckled and there were minor crevasses around the edge.

Once past the edge, there was a 60-foot (or so) diameter patch of dark, clear ice a Zamboni could not have improved upon. Even though the ice was at least a foot thick, the pounding coming from below was disconcerting. I knew I couldn’t fall in, but my instincts were hard to override. At every pop I froze.

I glided around for 15 minutes or so, never quite working up enough courage to try a one-footed spin, but enjoying looking up at the mountains all around.

The ice skating wasn’t epic by any means, but it gets points for atmosphere.

To reach the Lake Louise trailhead: Go 3.8 miles past downtown Dubois until you see a small sign indicating a Wyoming Game & Fish Department fish hatchery on the right. Turn there. Take a left at the road’s first fork and a right at the second. The road ends at the trailhead about 8 miles back.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. She is also a host of the Wyoming PBS show Wyoming Chronicle and is always looking for interesting people to interview. Email her if you've got any suggestions.

Grown-Up Road Trips

2011-12-30T13:46:00.000-08:00

By Helen Coronato
The Accidental Cowgirl

A few years ago when we were in Wyoming visiting family for the summer, I found myself at a seasonal festival browsing through crafts and homemade goods. As I did, I couldn’t help but notice a group of women doing the same. They were laughing and carrying on in the way that only true friends can. Their secret, insider language and fluid interactions made me long for my own girlfriends. When we decided to move West full time, saying goodbye to those same friends was one of the hardest things I had to do, as I was certain no one could ever replace them.

Of course, no one has. But was has happened, is that I have made new friends. And on a recent Wyoming road trip, those friendships were solidified. An event in Casper prompted the four of us to pack a bag and hit the road mini-van style. Casper seems to pop up almost expectantly. All of the sudden, after miles of quiet landscape, we are in a bustling town, complete with chain restaurants, hotels and shops. A series of humorous events caused us to miss our hotel exit, change our restaurant plans, rent a cot to preserve some personal space and get several cases of the grown-up giggles courtesy of lack of sleep. But it was completely worth it.

Our eight hour round trip was the perfect opportunity for getting to know one another better. While I considered us all friends before the trip, the shared experience has definitely made these women more special to me. And isn’t that we are all searching for? Intimate relationships were we get to be ourselves and really get to know someone else in the process?

Driving across the state of Wyoming could make some people nervous. After all, for a city girl like me, the weather seems unpredictable, the towns feel too far apart and the landscape seems to have a personality all it’s own. But the company I kept that weekend made me feel like I was exactly where I was supposed to be. And I plan on staying right where I am, with the people I am with.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com.

Opening Day at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

2011-12-07T10:54:00.000-08:00

By Dina Mishev

Although it wasn’t my first day of the seasons on skis — that was back on October 29 — I still mark the beginning of ski season with opening day at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. It was November 26 this year. This was the second year in a row it happened in November. Prior to the 2010–2011 season, JHMR always opened the first full weekend of December … at least it had since I moved to the valley in 1997.

I don’t think it’s a JHMR PR ploy when they’re saying this is looking like another la Nina year.

What does that mean? Lots of things. Most simply it means awesomeness. And awesomeness means more snow than usual. The 2010–2011 season was a la Nina one, too. It was one for the record books from opening day through closing day.

The 2011–2012 opening day wasn’t quite as unbelievable as last yes, on which the resort opened with pretty much 100 percent of its terrain ready to go. But this November there were still 3,000 feet of vertical, which is more than many resorts have even at the height of the season.

The sun was shining (part of the day). Six inches of snow had fallen the day before. Village Café was serving breakfast burritos and cinnamon rolls. The iconic tram and the Sublette high-speed quad lift weren’t yet open, but there still wasn’t even a bit of a line at the lifts that were.

There’s a new lift too: Marmot. Marmot doesn’t access any additional terrain, but, man, is it welcome. Stretching from the base of the Thunder lift to the top of the Bridger Gondola, it finally allows skiers and riders to easily go back and forth between the two sides of the resort. And it allows skiers in the vicinity of the Thunder lift to get to Rendezvous restaurant (and the supersized cupcakes there) at the top of the gondola without skiing all the way to the resort’s base and then taking the gondola up. It might be my new favorite lift.

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is open daily through April 8. For the first time ever, JHMR has special “featured rates” for multiday lift tickets purchased online. These re only available for certain dates and must be purchased at least seven days in advance.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. She is also a host of the Wyoming PBS show Wyoming Chronicle and is always looking for interesting people to interview. Email her if you've got any suggestions.

As American as Apple Pie

2011-12-02T09:08:00.000-08:00

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

The Aladdin Homemakers are one of three remaining homemaking groups in the state of Wyoming. With a rich history that dates back to the 1930s, groups such as this have sought to be a source of support, education and creativity to area women and a resource for community members. Luckily for me, they also feel strongly about pie.

The yearly pie social is one of the fundraisers the Aladdin Homemakers host to raise funds and awareness for projects near and dear to their hearts. On average, 75 people visit the Aladdin Community Hall during this event to purchase and enjoy homemade pies with flavors ranging from lemon meringue to rhubarb to cheesecake. Supporters can buy a slice, an entire pie, or, as I was lucky enough to do, mix and match pie slices to create a dessert platter that made me the most popular person in the house when I came home that night. There are no set prices as monies are raised by generous donations.

The organization started as a way to help socially connect young homemakers while offering advice on canning, child rearing and housekeeping. Today’s meeting are just as pertinent and educational, and may also include hobbies and interests such as stationary making. Interestingly though, homemaker groups such as these find that the members in attendance are predominantly of the grand-parenting age, with younger mothers opting for mailbox membership. Working, soccer schedules and numerous other obligations have made it more challenging to increase attendance. After spending time with the knowledgeable, friendly “senior” members of the Aladdin homemakers, this seems most unfortunate.

Yes, you can learn to can, cook, clean and create stationary from two minutes of video on You Tube. Yes, it seems like we are busier than ever and taking time off to visit with friends and neighbors offer coffee, cookies and a guest speaker isn’t a priority. But I wonder how mush more satisfied we women would be if we took time to stop and smell the roses; or in this case, stop and bake some pies.

I for one am on a mission to find out and will be sending in my annual dues of $10 to officially become a “homemaker.” Not only will this be an excellent opportunity to connect with more women, it may also turn out to be my best pie-baking year yet.

For more information about the Aladdin Homemakers, including membership and upcoming projects, please contact current President Susan Rice at ricenmor@gmail.com or 307-896-9131.

Fly Fishing The North Platte River in Fall/Winter

2011-11-07T16:04:00.000-08:00

By Jeff McDonald

As winter begins to tighten its grip on Wyoming, it is a good time to get out the skis and snowboards. But it doesn’t mean that you have to put the fly rods and waders away for the next six months — there are still plenty of great opportunities to catch trout on the fly.

One such place to find these opportunities is the North Platte River in Central Wyoming. The North Platte proudly makes its way through a series of dams and reservoirs, including Seminoe, Pathfinder, Alcova, and Gray Reef before moving on toward the city of Casper. Because of these dams, the water that is released below maintains a relatively steady temperature and does not ice over as many other Wyoming rivers and streams do in the wintertime.

Steve McDonald (my dad) with a trophy brown trout on the North Platte River,
by Jeff McDonald.

The North Platte is well known for producing trophy trout on the fly, and these fish stick around and take full advantage of the tailwaters below the dams. Food remains abundant and the fish continue to strike on fly patterns popular to the region.

Most public sections of the river can be easily waded in winter, but consider the outdoor temperature/conditions and dress accordingly before you go out. It is best to layer up as you would for a day on the ski hill, keeping in mind that the best way to stay warm is to stay dry.

If standing in a river, casting a fly rod when the air temperature drops into the teens (or lower) does not sound like much fun, even for the chance to hook into a 25+ inch trout, floating the river in a drift boat is a great alternative. Although you are still exposed to the elements, being in a drift boat keeps you out of the water and allows you to cover more of the river in a day.

Local fly shops and outfitters continue to offer guide services throughout the winter, such as North Platte River Fly Shop and The Reef Fly Shop. Shop staff and guides are also a great resource for learning about the hot fly selections for the conditions, specific fishing technique and suggestions on the best spots to go to.

Winter fly fishing in Wyoming can be tough, but it makes the victories that much sweeter. And trust me when I tell you … when you hook into a monster trout with a fly rod on the North Platte River, you forget all about the temperature.

Jeff McDonald is a member of the Laramie chapter of Trout Unlimited (Laramie Valley Trout Unlimited). He enjoys traveling Wyoming with his wife and daughter, fly fishing, skiing and photography. You can watch Jeff's fly fishing videos on his Laramie Angler YouTube channel.

Brown & Gold

2011-11-03T07:24:00.000-07:00

By Jeff McDonald

Brown Trout by Jeff McDonald

The thought of fall in Wyoming is always exciting to me, and it brings to mind two words: brown and gold. Sure, there are the beautiful changing leaves on the cottonwood and aspen trees and the University of Wyoming football games, but to me brown and gold describes something else entirely.

Fall is the best time of year to fly fish for brown trout in the Big Laramie River in southeast Wyoming. They display brilliant colors of brown and gold, and they are aggressive hunters in the cooler temperatures and lower light of fall.

After a long summer of feeding and growing, the resident brown trout are larger and more confident than they were in the spring. They like to hold in deeper holes of the river or in undercut banks and submerged brush piles, waiting to ambush a meal.

They can be almost ghost-like; merely a dark shadow that appears out of nowhere to attack their prey. They are very calculated and will only show themselves if the meal opportunity is worth it.

Because of this behavior, I typically fish for fall browns with large flies that imitate such a meal opportunity. I use large streamer patterns, such as a black and red cone-head woolly bugger or a crayfish pattern. These flies are large and heavy, and they sink fast.

A delicate presentation is not needed; I actually prefer to cause a bit of a commotion when the fly hits the water to get their attention. I cast the fly over to the opposite bank, near their hideouts, and let it sink right in front of them. I then give the fly some deliberate twitches and strips of the line to make it appear as if it is trying to flee.

If a brown trout locks in on the fly, the shadow comes out and there is no question when the fish hits the fly. With a strong hook-set and a raise of the rod, the battle begins. A fight with a brown trout is not like a rainbow trout; the browns will be steady and strong. Rather than using acrobatics and speed to try to shake the fly like a rainbow, a brown will try to use brute force and depth to escape.

When a fall brown trout is brought to my net, I am rewarded with the spectacular colors of these beautiful fish and the feeling one might have after seeing a wolf in Yellowstone. It is a chance to marvel at the “river ghost.” When I release the fish, it slowly disappears back into the depths of the river to hunt again.

An Autumn Day in the Wind Rivers

2011-10-12T08:24:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Yes, it snowed in Wyoming two weeks ago. I’m an optimist though, and I fully believe the few inches of snow that fell in the Tetons and Wind River Range (as well as across much of the rest of the state) will melt before winter comes for real.

If it doesn’t though, memories from an early October hike into the Cirque of the Towers can last me until it melts in June.

But this snow will melt in the next few weeks. I hope.

Teddy Roosevelt famously said the Tetons are “what mountains are supposed to look like.” He obviously never visited the Cirque, in the huge mountain range southeast of the Tetons, the Wind Rivers.

At the base of the Tetons, it is possible to turn your back and have a (fairly) wide-open valley in front of you. In the Cirque, no matter which direction you turn, there are mountains ready to smack you silly with their granitic spires, buttresses, arêtes, ridges, faces, summits, and well, towers.

Standing in the middle of the Cirque, with Pingora rising in front of you, Shark’s Nose is to the left, the Warrior hulks at your back, and Jackass Pass, with Haystack Mountain hiding behind it, rises to your starboard. It’s as close as you can ever get to being embraced by mountains. I get warm fuzzies just thinking about being there.

Nothing against the Tetons, of course. In fact, the Cirque, a nine-mile hike in from the Big Sandy Trailhead southeast of Pinedale, is the only place I’ve found that compares (and doesn’t involve flying across multiple time zones).

And, unlike many places in the Winds, the Cirque isn’t that difficult to get to. Fit hikers can make it in and out in a day.

It’s not that strenuous of a hike. You do have to ascend the 10,760-foot Jackass Pass … but the Big Sandy Trailhead, where you start, is already at 9,150 feet.

A girlfriend and myself were in and out, with a leisurely stop for lunch at the top of the pass, in six hours.

Although the Cirque, which was given its poetic name in 1941 by Frank Garnick, who also, with brother Notsie, named Pingora, is home to around 200 climbing routes, you don’t have to be a climber to appreciate the beauty of the place. (Although if you are a climber, know that the northeast face of Pingora (5.8) and the east ridge of the Wolf's Head (5.6) are included in "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.")

I’ve seen people back there with fly rods before. Hikers comfortable on rock can scramble up some interesting stuff. It’s perfectly acceptable to merely gawp as well.

If you want to head into the Cirque this fall (or next summer), head for Pinedale on U.S. 191. Coming from Rock Springs, you’ll want to take a right on WY 353 at Boulder, about 10 minutes before you get to Pinedale. Coming from Jackson, go 10 minutes past Pinedale to Boulder, where you’ll take a left on WY 353. You’ll enjoy beautiful new blacktop for 20 miles or so. And then the road becomes dirt, but the kind of dirt road you can go 60 miles per hour on.

Shortly after the road becomes dirt, signs begin to appear. Keep following the ones for Big Sandy Lodge and/or Big Sandy. The last five miles, the condition of the road deteriorates a bit: you’ll want to slow down from 60 miles per hour to 25 or so. Even so, any car can make it. There are no stretches requiring high clearance. When I was there two weeks ago, you should have seen some of the RVs hunters had hauled back there.

The trail to the Cirque is the same one that takes you past Big Sandy Lake. When the trail forks six miles in at Big Sandy Lake, take the left fork up Jackass Pass.

Wyoming’s High Country Brook Trout

2011-09-23T08:33:00.000-07:00

By Jeff McDonald

It was not until well into July when winter finally loosened its grip on the high country of Wyoming’s Snowy Range, located about 30 miles west of Laramie. The snow finally receded and reveled familiar meandering streams teaming with hungry brook trout.

The window for fly fishing for brook trout above 10,000 feet is small; winter will again begin to set in as early as mid-September. This gives the resident brook trout a short time to eat anything and everything that they can … and this makes for exciting fly fishing.

My tool of choice for these small high alpine streams is a 7-foot, 6-inch, 3-weight rod, 6X tippet, and big bushy dry flies that present a meal opportunity that is too good to pass up.

The cold mountain water is gin-clear, making it easy to sight trout. This also means the trout can see me, so a certain level of stealth is required to approach each deep pool that can hold dozens of trout. Approaching a pool from the downstream side and making short to moderate cast that places the fly at the head of the pool is sure to produce a strike.

While these fish are generally small, ranging from 6 to 12 inches, they hit the fly deliberately and with purpose. Hooking these trout with light tackle is some of the most fun I have ever had trout fishing.

My selection is simple: Just about any general pattern that looks appetizing to the trout will work. Because of their environment and short “summer,” the trout are not very selective and want to eat as much as they can. This simplicity makes for less time spent trying to match a particular insect on the water, and more time hooking fish after fish on a dry fly. The only time I need to change flies is after so many fish have hit the fly that the thread and hackle begin to unravel.

This type of fly fishing is great for fly anglers of any skill level. Long and tricky casts are generally not needed, and it is a great confidence-builder for a beginner. Likewise, experienced anglers can enjoy beautiful surroundings and ultra-light gear while catching wild trout on the fly.

Jeff McDonald is a member of the Laramie chapter of Trout Unlimited (Laramie Valley Trout Unlimited). He enjoys traveling Wyoming with his wife and daughter, fly fishing, skiing and photography. You can watch Jeff's fly fishing videos on his Laramie Angler YouTube channel.

Romance is in the Air ... Kind Of

2011-09-12T13:16:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Not nearly so fearsome looking as bison nor as cute as moose, elk are one of Grand Teton National Park's often under-appreciated animals ... until about now when their mating season begins.

If you've never heard a male elk bugle, you've never heard one of the eeriest, most piercing vocals in the animal kingdom. Until you actually see a bull elk bare its ivories (elk have four ivory teeth) and bugle, it's difficult to imagine the noise actually comes from a living creature. Bull elk are bugling to attract the attention of the ladies.

Several thousand elk call Grand Teton National Park home during the summer. Once the snow starts, they migrate to the National ElkRefuge, which abuts the park's southeastern border. Between now and then, their main missions are to bulk up for the winter and to mate.

Unlike bison and moose, elk are rarely dangerous, despite their ginormous (and very pointy) antlers. Only male (bull) elk grow antlers and they shed them annually. Wondering how many elk had to die for Jackson to build those four elk antler arches on its town square? None. Bull elk drop their antlers every winter. As they begin to grow back in the spring, they can grow at a rate of an inch a day. The bigger an elk's antlers, the older he is. Large — say, six-point — antlers can weigh up to 40 pounds. If you happen to stumble upon shed elk antlers in the park, keep in mind that it is illegal to remove them.

But I digress. Back to mating elk.

Elk aren’t actually mating when they’re bugling; they’re just trying to convince some ladies they’re cool and strong enough to mate with at a point in the near future. So if you’re worried you’ll get an NC-17 scene when you’re out innocently enjoying some bugling, fear not.

Good spots to listen for bugling elk are around the Lupine Meadows trailhead about six miles inside GTNP from the Moose entrance, the Climbers Ranch, which is just before the Lupine Meadows trailhead, and Timbered Island, which is on the opposite side of the road from the Climbers Ranch and Lupine Meadows trailhead. The action starts at dusk and should be continuing into October.

If you want some help finding the elk along with a bit of exercise, Teton Mountain Bike Tours offer a four-hour bugling elk bike ride along the paved pathway in the park.

Watch this YouTube video to see a bull elk bugle:

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. She is also a host of the Wyoming PBS show Wyoming Chronicle and is always looking for interesting people to interview. Email her if you've got any suggestions.

Jackson Hole’s Tram — Not Just for Winter

2011-09-01T09:32:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Yes, the tram at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is one of Wyoming’s most iconic winter sights. Skiers flock here from around the world to take the JHMR tram 4,139 feet up to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and then ski the resort’s expert slopes.

The JHMR tram has a summer season, too. Starting Memorial Day weekend and going into October, the tram whisks sightseers and hikers up the same terrain. Of course, sightseers and hikers can always hike the 7.2-mile Summit Trail from the resort base to Rendezvous’ summit. Do you know how long it takes the average person to hike 7.2 miles up 4,139 vertical feet? A hint: you could have a mini Harry Potter marathon in the same amount of time.

The tram covers the distance in nine minutes and doesn’t leave you sore and sweaty — it does leave you with energy to do a hike from Rendezvous’ summit though.

Read on for three of my favorite hikes off the tram, in order from shortest to longest:

1. The Summit Trail in reverse (7.2 miles and 4,129 vertical feet down)

I’d only recommend this if you’ve got healthy knees. You’d think walking downhill would be a piece of cake, but, well, unless your knees and quads are used to it, it can hurt more than walking up. For those willing and able, expect wide-open views for the top 3,000 feet and then beautiful single-track the last 1,000 feet into Teton Village. As recently as last week, wild flowers were still abloom, butterflies were flitting around and dust was minimal. It was all I could do to keep my inner Julie Andrews quiet.

Things are drying out fast though, so I don’t know how much longer the flowers, butterflies and my inner Julie Andrews will last.

2. Into Granite Canyon in Grand Teton National Park (about 10 miles and 4,500 vertical feet down with a few small climbs)

Just to the north of JHMR is Grand Teton National Park. Hiking off the backside of the tram on a well-worn trail, you can get to Granite Canyon, one of the least-steep trails in the Park (not counting the trails encircling the lakes on the valley floor). If your knees balk at the idea of walking down Rendezvous Mountain on the Summit Trail, consider this trail. You’ll still be covering the same vertical distance, but it won’t be as steep.

Granite Canyon also has plenty of shade and the resident moose are fairly well-behaved. This summer — and it’s been a few weeks since I’ve been back there, so I don’t know if they’re still flowing — there’s also a plethora of waterfalls spilling over the granite outcrops on both sides of the canyon. I stopped counting at six. There are some pretty impressive avalanche paths to marvel at as well.

3) Tram to Marion Lake and then down Granite Canyon (15 miles, 5,500 vertical feet down)

For lack of better words, Marion Lake is freaking fabulous. Yes, there’s a 600-foot, fairly steep climb just below it and taking the tram up Rendezvous doesn’t exempt you from this climb. But, as soon as you’re lakeside, laughing at the obese marmots splayed out sunning themselves on the boulders by the water’s edge, you’ll forget the pain.

And then you’ll have the same lovely scenery walking down Granite Canyon as option No. 2.

Note: Only Option 1 has you ending in the same place you start. Options 2 and 3 can be made into loops though. The Valley Trail between Teton Village and the Granite Canyon Trailhead is 3.9 miles with about 400 feet of climbing. Or you can set up a car shuttle.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Charity Begins in the Saddle

2011-08-25T08:07:00.000-07:00

Photo courtesy of Chanda Snook

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

The 5th Annual Ride a Horse Feed a Cowboy event is slated for August 26–28 in Hulett. This local nonprofit group is dedicated to easing the financial burdens of community members who suffer from debilitating injury, illness or expensive medical treatments. During the weekend event goers will enjoy the a community barbecue; “Bulls & Broncs Wear Pink Rodeo;” Art, Craft and Collectible Auction; the Old West Cowboy & Indian Collectible Trade Show; and the Calcutta Poker Tournament, along with live music provided by country favorite Paul Bogart.

Having attended the event for the past two years, I was excited to speak with founder and event coordinator Chanda Snook about the 2011 benefit. She says “I am proud that this fund raiser has quadrupled in attendance since our inaugural year, making it possible for us to plan even more family-friendly activities and authentic Western events for our 2011 weekend and increase our publicity and advertising campaigns.” Last year, Chanda presented a check for $8,000 to a local family in need. Considering the population of Hulett, Wyoming (the event’s stomping grounds) taps out at 400 residents, that is really quite an accomplishment!

Ride a Horse, Feed a Cowboy is not the first charity event I had ever attended, but it was the first one I knew of that was hosted by a town. With so many people more concerned with their own well being than that of neighbors, even insulating themselves from each other, it’s refreshing to see a group of people come together to benefit one of their own. On the east coast, where I often heard residents complain that they wanted the needy to stay out of “their backyard,” I am grateful to live in a place where neighbors not only seek out those in need, but organize weekend events to help them. Remarkably, Western hospitality is not just a state of mind, it’s a calendar event, proudly celebrating its fifth year.

Learn more at www.rideahorsefeedacowboy.com.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com.

Behind the Scenes at the CFD Rodeo

2011-08-22T09:50:00.000-07:00

By Helen Coronato
The Accidental Cowgirl

From July 22–31st, Cheyenne Wyoming was transformed from a contemporary town of 60,000 residents to the world famous Daddy of ‘Em All Cheyenne Frontier Days. Always held the last full week of July, Frontier Days is hosted almost entirely by local residents who help facilitate nine days of rodeos sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA), professional entertainment, parades, art shows, concerts, shopping and food.

With so much to see and do, the event can seem overwhelming. But when you have a chance to interview a key player, the chance to go behind the velvet rope (or in this case, the iron chute) makes the experience that much more exhilarating. Kirsten Vold, Cheyenne Fronteir’s Days stock contractor, was kind enough to take time from her jammed-packed schedule and answer a few questions about this 115-year-old rodeo.

As a female Pioneer in the rodeo industry which professional accomplishment are you most proud of?

That paint horse stud Painted Valley in the back pens, he was voted 2010's Saddle Bronc of the Year.

What is the biggest change you've seen in rodeo since becoming a full time member of Vold Rodeo Company?

For more than 38 years I’ve been involved in rodeo and cowboy sponsorship has grown immensely. Of course it is not anywhere near comparable to the NFL or the basketball or baseball players, but some of these cowboys wouldn't be able to do what they love if it weren't for their sponsors. Also, the contestants have a lot more to say about the stock and what goes on at a rodeo now than they did even 10 years ago.

What's your favorite thing about working Cheyenne Frontier Days (CFD)?

When we come to CFD, I get to work with people that I don't usually get to see all year. It’s like reuniting with a close-knit family who all enjoy working together for 10 days.

Your father Harry Vold (owner of one of the largest stock contracting companies in North America) is known as the “Duke of the Chutes”, what's your title?

Well I have heard princess, but I really don't like that name, and I've also heard Duchess of the Chutes.

With a calm, collective demeanor, personable smile and humble self assuredness, Kristen Vold is rightfully taking her place as the Duchess of the Chutes and is likely to continue helping to shape the future of rodeo. For all of us who love Cheyenne Frontier Day’s Rodeo, I can’t think of better news.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com.

Taking it easy on the Snake River

2011-08-19T13:18:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Several times during my long-ago-ended kayaking career, I paddled the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park. There isn’t a lick of whitewater to be found on most of it, but it always made me more nervous than paddling the big whitewater in the Snake River Canyon south of Jackson.

What it lacks in whitewater, it makes up for with obstacles like downed trees and sandbars.

I don’t ever recall seeing a sign in the canyon like there is at the ramp at Dornan’s: “The Snake River is dangerous and demanding. Only a highly skilled person familiar with this river should pilot a vessel.”

Paddling the Snake in the park myself, I was not only nervous, but also so focused on upcoming obstacles that I never got to properly enjoy the scenery. And I knew it would be beautiful if I ever relaxed enough to look up.

So it wasn’t just because I sold my kayak and all accompanying accoutrements that I signed on for a trip with Barker-Ewing Scenic Floats. I didn’t just want to go down the river, but enjoy it. And with a guide taking care of all the details — boat, shuttle, route-finding, avoiding snags — I figured I could.

I was right.

The most onerous thing I had to do was show up at the boat launch in Moose, which is behind the old Moose Visitor Center 12 miles north of Jackson, a few minutes before 8 a.m. Having been advised the odds of seeing wildlife were highest in morning (and evening), I opted for that early hour of my own accord.

Barker-Ewing Scenic Floats, since 1985 this has been a totally separate company from Barker-Ewing Whitewater, which does trips in the canyon. Head guide Reed Finlay herded 10 of us into the shuttle van for the short drive north to the Deadman’s Bar put-in. Along the way he got us excited for what we might see. A few days before, he floated past a grizzly napping on one of the many islands that dot this stretch of the river.

At the launch, we got a safety talk as well as life jackets. Putting the ginormous orange vest on, I wished that perhaps I hadn’t sold all of my river gear.

Pushing off into the current we were quickly swept along chai-colored water around a corner that gave us no choice but to gawk at the Cathedral Group. Finlay did his best to point out the flora lining the river’s banks — Arrowleaf Balsamroot, lupine, scarlet gilia, monks hood, Indian Paintbrush, silverberry bushes — but most of us were oblivious.

If we got tired of the Grand, Middle, South, Nez Perce, Owen, and Teewinot, we could look northwest and find Mt. Moran, which, thanks to Finlay’s fun facts, I know now is the fourth highest peak in the range. (I also know that silverberries aren’t poisonous, but are mealy, so I shouldn’t sacrifice any of my huckleberry time on them.)

Sadly, we could not look upon a napping grizzly. The island Finlay had previously seen it on was only populated by Canada geese and geeselets.

There was a common golden eye (a duck not too often spotted) stubbornly perched atop a tree stump no larger than its bottom in the middle of the current. In my kayak, I possibly would have taken the poor thing out.

Enjoying the unusually high water for this time of year, Finlay steered us into a side channel for a much more intimate perspective of the river … and some close up views of beaver lodges.

Eagles watched us from the tippy tops of dead trees.

Sandhill Cranes strutted around a sandy island their grayish-red feathers were perfect camouflage for.

Having had more than a few, umm, encounters with moose, I wasn’t as desperate to see one as the out-of-town floaters were. Coming up on the trip’s end, I felt bad they missed out. But there on river right was a young moose munching away at willows. With nothing to focus on but the little guy, he was probably last year’s baby, I noticed the beginnings of his paddles sprouting up in front of his floppy ears.

See the moose?

It was much better end to the trip than stressing over getting my kayak to the take out in time.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Fly Fishing: The Dawn Patrol

2011-08-09T14:49:00.000-07:00

By Jeff McDonald

My cell phone alarm beeps at 4:30am. I disarm it quickly and clumsily so as to not wake up my wife. Creeping through the house as quietly as I can, I kick on the coffee maker and slip on my waders.

It is still dark outside as I point my Subaru south out of Laramie on Highway 287 toward the Colorado border. My destination is Leazenby Lake, a few miles out of town. This is a small lake developed as a sanctuary for migrating birds, and it has been stocked with rainbow trout.

I pull in to the public parking area as the first hint of sunrise begins to peek over the Laramie Range to the east, giving me just enough light to notice a few mayflies fluttering about. I pull my already-assembled fly rod out of the car and walk through the gate to the water.

As I step into the water, I am greeted by the familiar sound of rising rainbow trout taking insects off the surface. Within 30 minutes from waking up in Laramie, I am standing knee-deep in the water casting my dry fly to rising trout, and the sun is just beginning to come up.

It does not take long. My first cast of the morning hooks a trout as the sky turns into the deep, familiar hues of another fantastic Wyoming sunrise. Trout continue to rise all around me, as if oblivious to my presence.

Over the next couple hours, as the sun ascends higher into the sky and the temperatures rise, more casts yield more takes and trout on the end of my line. Perfectly content with my morning, I pack up and head back into town just in time for breakfast with my wife and daughter.

Just another day in paradise.

Watch this video I took on this early morning fishing trip:

Jeff McDonald is a member of the Laramie chapter of Trout Unlimited (Laramie Valley Trout Unlimited). He enjoys traveling Wyoming with his wife and daughter, fly fishing, skiing and photography. You can watch Jeff's fly fishing videos on his Laramie Angler YouTube channel.

Welcome to Wyoming!

2011-08-04T14:21:00.000-07:00

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

Drivers headed westbound on I-90 are greeted by the Forever West billboard announcing the unofficial line in the sand between the Midwest and the West. This staple photo-op recently upped the ante on Western hospitality with the addition of the “Welcome Center” sign alerting travelers to the recently opened Northeast Information Center at exit 199. Curious to see what newcomers (like myself) would experience as a first impression, I pulled in.

I was immediately struck by the grand entrance, lovely landscaping and easy access to very clean bathrooms (always a bonus!) open 24 hours day. Going into the main building, I was greeted by high-end décor; think Pier 1 goes frontier. There were several fun spots to snap a few quick photos, including a white water rafting adventure that provided a great backdrop but required no towel.

I mulled around for a few moments, taking note of the extensive amount of information free for the taking. Maps, guides, points of interest, coupons and trails lined the walls — making it possible for every traveler to take what they need. I even found a few articles of interest (the Lewis and Clark trail!) and happily took a pamphlet to share with my own family as I am committed to remaining a tourist in my own backyard and not taking for granted where I live. (On a sad side note, I lived in NY most of my life and never visited the Statue of Liberty. Sigh.) I also eavesdropped on the Welcome Center staff taking the time to help tourists find alternative routes after an unusual amount of rain resulted in road damage and threatened to derail their plans. The kind, reassuring tone of the staff coupled with their knowledge and understanding made me proud to have parked my Wyoming plates outside.

And that’s the beauty of Welcome Centers like these — the first impression. With 24/7 Wi-Fi, extended summer hours that begin at 7am and close at 7pm and a staff that is dedicated not only to pointing you in the right direction, but pointing out what to do and see as you make your way there, the Northeast Information Center is an invaluable addition to our neck of the woods. An addition that is likely to be added to the memory making experience of visiting our great state.

The Hills Are Alive With the Sound of Music

2011-08-01T12:44:00.000-07:00

Photo by W. Garth Dowling

By Dina Mishev

Four nights ago, it was Berloiz, Gershwin, Mozart and Bernstein I heard performed at Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village, 12 miles from downtown Jackson. Tonight it was the Beatles: “A Hard Day’s Night,” “Love Me Do,” “Twist and Shout,” “And I Love Her,” “Can’t Buy Me Love,” “Help” and two dozen others.

The Grand Teton Music Festival has come a long way in its 50 years.

The Festival was founded in 1962 as the Jackson Hole Fine Arts Festival. Performances were held in the old Jackson Hole High School gymnasium, at Jackson Lake Lodge and on the lawn of St. John’s Church.

Eight years later, conductor and Music Director Ling Tung changed the name to Grand Teton Music Festival. Then he and Margot Walk, his wife at the time, set about bringing the Festival from obscurity to international repute. The GTMF Orchestra has been called one of the world’s finest by renowned conductor Zubin Mehta (mostly of New York Philharmonic fame).

Tung headed the Festival for 30 years.

Photo by Ashley Wilkerson

The GTMF began performing in Teton Village in 1967. After seven years outside under a carnival tent (orchestra performances) and in Mangy Moose Saloon (chamber performances), Walk Festival Hall opened in 1974. At the base of the ski slopes, Walk Festival Hall quickly became known for its acoustics.

The hall reached a milestone in 2007 when it was retrofitted with amenities such as heat. For the first time, the hall was capable of hosting winter shows.

Even so, it’s the GTMF’s summer season that really puts the hall to use.

This year’s 50^th anniversary season — like all other recent seasons — includes at least five nights of live performances a week. There are orchestra concerts Fridays at 8pm and Saturdays at 6:30pm. This summer’s orchestra, which is made up of musicians from the best orchestras across the country, plays pieces ranging from Bach’s Double Concerto to Beethoven’s “Emperor” Piano Concerto and Mahler’s Symphony No. 2 “Resurrection.”

Mondays the musicians take a well-earned rest.

Tuesdays, the funniest trombonist you’ll ever meet, Roger Oyster, hosts “Inside the Music” concerts at 8pm. Oyster dives into specific musical subjects — a style, theme, composer, instrument, orchestra section, era. He also often tosses candy into the audience.

Wednesdays are “Spotlight” concerts featuring guest ensembles like the Beatles tribute band The Magical Mystery Tour, the Philadelphia Boys Choir, Los Angeles Guitar Quintet, and Doc Severinsen and the San Miguel 5. These concerts, opportunities for the Festival to relax and showcase performers who aren’t necessarily classical, almost always sell out.

Thursdays belong to Festival musicians. “Musicians’ Choice” programs are organized, rehearsed and presented by the musicians themselves. This makes for varied, fun concerts that, this summer, includes pieces by French composer Francis Poulenc, American Steve Reich, Argentine Astor Piazzolla (of course it’s tango), and Brahms, Beethoven, Strauss and Schubert.

This year’s season goes through August 20. Tickets for students are almost always $10. Weekday concerts start at $25. Orchestra concerts are $53 (students are still $10).

Outside of Walk Festival Hall, the Festival’s Axiom Brass quintet performs for free at venues around Jackson Hole through July 22. Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 11:30am and 12:30pm, the group plays at the Colter Bay Visitor Center. Thursdays and Fridays at the same times, the group is at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center. Wednesdays at 5 and 6pm, it’s Jackson Lake Lodge (I recommend a meal at the lodge’s Mural Room afterward). Fridays at 3pm, the group is at the Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center. The latter is the building with the grass roof on Cache Street as you head out of Jackson.

How cool is it that you can start or end a hike in Grand Teton National Park with a concert by world-renowned musicians? Or enjoy the jaw-dropping views from Jackson Lake Lodge while being serenaded?

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Fly Fishing: Hidden Treasures During Runoff Conditions

2011-07-28T09:00:00.000-07:00

By Jeff McDonald

Many areas in Wyoming’s high country are still heavily loaded with melting snow, which means that most of the rivers and creeks continue to run high with poor water clarity. High, fast moving water can also make wading a challenge, if not downright dangerous.

Just because some of the better-known trout streams are “blown out,” it does not mean that there is not good fly fishing in Wyoming right now. During these runoff conditions, I like to focus my attention on smaller out-of-the-way places that escape the dangerous runoff conditions much earlier in the spring.

A perfect example of one of these areas is the Laramie Range between Laramie and Cheyenne. During the months of June and July I have been exploring many of the small drainages in the Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest, including small creeks around the Vedauwoo area.

These small creeks run cold and clear, but what makes them most attractive to fly fishermen are numerous beaver ponds along the way. Getting into these beaver ponds can sometimes require some creative bushwhacking skills, but they are easy to wade and refreshing in the afternoon sun. These ponds offer the perfect habitat for brook trout that are numerous and eager to eat. These fish are typically small (between eight and 12 inches), but catching a two-pound brook trout in a Laramie Range beaver pond is not uncommon.

As many experienced fly fishermen know, brook trout are often aggressive when hitting a dry fly, and typically less picky that other trout species in the region. I fish these ponds with light tackle (nothing more than a 5-weight rod), delicate tippets (6X or 7X), and small dry flies. My fly selection usually consists of some Parachute Adams, blue-winged olive, caddis and midge patterns.

I am always amazed at the stunning colors and spots on these brook trout. To me, catching a beautiful eight-inch brook trout on a light rod with a dry fly in a beautiful area is just as much fun as catching a three-pound rainbow in a larger river. And who can beat dry fly fishing for trout in Wyoming in June and July?

Exploring this area is easy. Within minutes from exiting at the Summit rest area on I-80 (exit 323), you can be on one of the numerous Forest Service roads winding into the Laramie Range. All you have to do is keep your eye out for beaver ponds in the many draws, and you are ready to fish. Just remember to pack your mosquito repellant.

Laramie Valley Trout Unlimited Chapter websites.

Jeff McDonald is a member of our local chapter of Trout Unlimited (Laramie Valley Trout Unlimited). Hen enjoys travel Wyoming with his wife and daughter, fly fishing, skiing and photography. You can watch some of Jeff's fly fishing videos on his Laramie Angler YouTube channel.

Cheyenne Frontier Days

2011-07-25T10:05:00.000-07:00

By Carrie Barker

I’ve had a cowboy hat tucked into the top of my closet for years, and this weekend I pulled it down for the very first time to wear at Cheyenne Frontier Days. I’ll admit, the classic style felt awkward at first, but while walking in an excited crowd of the big-brimmed hats I felt like I fit right in. And by the time I’d seen the first rodeo event, I was feeling like a genuine Western cowgirl.

And for the record, I’ve been to rodeos before, but nothing has compared to the Daddy of ‘Em All. From I-25 you can see the bright lights and colors of the carnival and the tops of the tee-pees in Indian Village. When you pull into the dusty parking lot, there are pickup trucks and horses occupying every other space — yes, horses had their own parking space. The midway is packed with fair-style food vendors selling funnel cakes topped with ice cream, smoked turkey legs and corn dogs. Once you smell it all, you won’t be able to resist.

My CFD companions and I saddled up on the press deck right above the chutes to watch the rodeo action. The bulls and broncos bucked the riders around like ragdolls, and the steer wrestling really got the crowd cheering. My favorite event was the wild horse race, and I’m not sure if the horses or the racing was the wild part, both were pretty out of control. Teams of three cowboys have to saddle a wild horse and ride it around the arena; first to accomplish this hair-brained challenge wins.

The rodeo cowboys enjoying a cold one after the event.

I’m already counting the days until I can do it all again, and this time I can’t wait to bring more of my friends. I still want to check out the parade, air show, Buckin-A Saloon and one of the nightly big-name concerts — fingers crossed to see Zac Brown Band. Since the show goes on through July 31, I might not wait a whole year.

My advice? Dust off your cowboy hat and download the CFD app for your smart phone before you go, that way you can look up the schedule, rodeo results and more while you’re there.

And check out this 1964 souvenir program that my Grandma has kept so long. I finally understand why she and my Grandpa loaded all the kids into the station wagon every summer and drove to Wyoming from Kalamazoo, Michigan to see Cheyenne Frontier Days.

Tour de Wyoming: A Different Way to See the State

2011-07-21T15:51:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Sunday morning, I started out from Worland. After touring through open, rolling ranch country, I ended the day in Ten Sleep, at the foot of the eastern slopes of the Bighorns.

Monday, it was 4,000-plus feet up and over Power River Pass, where huge fields of periwinkle lupine distract from the few small patches of remaining snow. It was like traveling through a perfume bottle. I descended from the pass’ 9,666-foot summit into Buffalo. Sagewood Gifts, on Main Street, has a wonderful little café hiding at the back of the store. The key lime cheesecake, which they make, along with all of the breads they use, in-house, was wonderful. I spent the night in Buffalo.

Today, Tuesday, I stayed on the western side of the Bighorns, coming up from Buffalo through the tiny towns of Banner and Story before stopping in Sheridan at one of my favorite coffee shops in the state, Java Moon. After a hearty bacon breakfast burrito, some freshly squeezed lemonade – 100-degree temperatures made that sound better than coffee – and a vanilla bean scone, I continued north to Dayton. The rugged Tongue River Canyon is only six miles outside of town and the river itself comes right through town. I’m tempted to jump in.

Tomorrow I will again head up into the Bighorns, to Bear Lodge at Burgess Junction.

Mine isn’t an uncommon itinerary.

I, along with 300-some others this week, are doing it all on bikes though … the kind of bikes you pedal, not ones with a throttle.

This year marks the 15^th annual Tour de Wyoming. It’s a volunteer-organized, six-day, fully-supported bike tour. Each day, all riders have to do is bike from point A to point B. (Well, and then pitch their tents once at point B.) A truck brings our luggage and there are eminently well-stocked and –manned rest stops en route. Riders that want to take a break can jump in a support vehicle and get taken as far up the road as they want.

At night, we camp at community centers, schools, and fairgrounds. Local groups looking to raise money make us breakfast and dinner. The route, which is different every year, usually covers between 300 and 400 miles.

I obviously live in Wyoming, but riders come from across the country. Last night I was camping next to a couple from Florida. Over my years doing the Tour – this year marks my fifth – I’ve made friends from Illinois, Colorado, California, Oregon, and New Jersey.

I haven’t done any multi-day bike tours besides Tour de Wyoming, so I have absolutely nothing to compare it to. Most other riders have however. And they say Tour de Wyoming is the one they keep coming back to.

Of course the state’s scenery is a draw. In the five years I’ve done the Tour, we’ve hit Devils Tower, the Snowy Range, the Bighorns, the Absarokas, and Flaming Gorge.

It’s not just the scenery though. When we all rolled into Dayton this afternoon, we increased the town’s population by half. The year we went through Meeteetse, there were more of us than there were Meeteetse-ans.

I guess a town could get annoyed at being taken over by a bunch of bicyclists, but I’ve yet to see it happen. Most businesses have signs up welcoming us and stay open late or open early for us.

The first full day of this year’s Tour, a Ten Sleep-ian sat down next to me shortly after I had arrived in town and started talking. Thirty minutes later as I got up to leave and go pitch my tent at the school, Pete said that if there wasn’t any room left up there, I should feel free to camp in his front yard.

I bet if I had come through Ten Sleep in a car I wouldn’t have gotten that offer. And I’m not so sure that, even on a bike, I would have gotten that offer in too many other states either.

My First Real Rodeo

2011-07-19T11:54:00.000-07:00

By Helen Coronato
The Accidental Cowgirl

The 64th Hulett Rodeo took place in June at the rodeo grounds –— a stone’s throw from Main Street. Having never attended a rodeo, I was looking forward to seeing some real cowboys in action. What could be more exciting than a cowboy in full regalia trying to stay on a horse that wants nothing to so with him?

We arrived under sunny skies and I was immediately enthralled with not just the sights, but the sounds. Being from the East Coast, I am used to there being a very safe distance and ample security between spectator and participant. Here, I propped a cowboy boot on the rail and had a better-than-front-row seat for the action. And action there was!

Yes, cowboys holding on for 8 seconds is something to see; but I had no idea how massive, mean and LOUD the horses and bulls (and sheep!) would be. The snarling, coughing, hissing and complaining beasts of burden kicking up dirt, ramming into the rails and falling and flailing turned each individual’s competition into a frenzy. I wasn’t just watching a show, I was experiencing an out-West event as old as the land itself. And while I held my breath when my own little boys tried to pull the ribbon from the sheep’s tail, I couldn’t help but smile when they, too, kicked some dirt on dear old mom as they ran by in hot pursuit of their prize. Where else in the world, I wondered, would we rather be doing this on a Saturday afternoon?

There are dozens of different rodeos that take place in the summer throughout the Black Hills and all of Wyoming. Many are bigger and bolder than the Hulett Rodeo, but this event will always hold a special place in my heart. How could it not? I not only got close enough to capture some great shots, I got to close enough to the West to forget that I was from the East.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com.

New Bike Park at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

2011-07-07T08:15:00.001-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort opens new trails … for bikers.

“On most of the beginner trails, you hardly need to pedal or brake, you just flow,” the supervisor at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s new Bike Park told me. Having run off the top of Rendezvous Mountain, also at JHMR, with him several years prior (attached to a paragliding wing), I wasn’t so sure he was to be believed. Another resort employee told me he’d feel comfortable having his five-year old kid ride the park’s beginner trails.

Still, I was nervous.

The last time I was on a mountain bike — while in Morocco researching a story — I fell. Hard. And broke my collarbone into many pieces. Rather than a hand-painted tagine to remember that trip by, I now have a four-inch metal plate and titanium screws in my left shoulder.

But I digress.

Opened June 18, the bike park was designed by Whistler-based Gravity Logic and constructed by JHMR staff last summer. JHMR has had cross-country mountain bike trails for years. The six trails that make the bike park are completely new. All are accessed from the top of the 300-foot Teewinot high-speed quad lift.

Rated beginner through advanced, like its winter-time ski runs, the bike park trails are all about the down. There are downhill trails on nearby Teton Pass — you drive to the top rather than take a lift though — but I have no doubt I would die if I tried to ride one. That’s why I was most intrigued by the bike park. I like the idea of downhill mountain biking, but I want buff trails, banked corners and big berms. Teton Pass trails are more about giant drops, tight corners, and loose rocks. For those with the skills to ride them, I know they’re much appreciated. I just don’t have those skills. I do have the desire to enjoy some mountain biking without getting all sweaty on a steep climb up however.

I went to the bike park on my own; there are daily group lessons for adults and kids though.

Lifties helped me get my borrowed bike (I sold my own after the Morocco debacle) onto the lift chair. Five minutes later, my bike and I were at the top of the beginner Lucky Charm trail. So were a group of 10-year-olds. Ten minutes later I was back at the bottom of the lift. My collarbone was intact. A huge smile was on my face. I had new photos of a moose on my phone’s camera.

The bike park supervisor wasn’t lying. The trail was luge-track-smooth. I only had to pedal a few times; had I not stopped to take some photos of the moose, I wouldn’t have had to pedal at all. I didn’t even have to think about bunny-hopping over any obstacles. At its narrowest, the trail was still a good four-feet wide and bermed all the way down. Corners were banked to the point they pretty much did the steering for me. If only all trails were this nice.

Find out more: 307-733-2292; www.jacksonhole.com/mountainbiking; $25/day; Open 9 a.m.– 5 p.m. daily until Sept. 5 and then weekends through the end of Sept.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Soak Up the Heat in Yellowstone’s Backcountry

2011-06-23T16:22:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Two confessions. One: I had lived in Jackson Hole for 13 years without ever venturing into the backcountry of Yellowstone. Of course I had hit Old Faithful, and Mammoth, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and all the rest of the sights you can see without venturing more than 100 feet from your car. But I, like 98 percent of the other visitors to the world’s first national park, had never taken the time to get more than several hundred feet from my car.

Horrible, I know. But it gets worse.

Confession two: I had lived in Jackson Hole for 13 years without ever backpacking for fun. I’ve spent my fair share of nights in a tent but always on a very serious mission: covering as many miles as humanely possible in a single day. I once tried to hike the 90-some-mile Highline Trail stretching along the 11,000-foot-tall spine of the Wind River Mountains in four days. (It’s no surprise I didn’t succeed.)

Last September, I took four days to hike 32 miles into and across the Bechler area in Yellowstone’s isolated southwest corner. Starting from the Lone Star Trailhead a few miles south of Old Faithful, two girlfriends and myself hiked over Grants Pass, past Douglas Knob, over the Continental Divide (three times), down Bechler Canyon, past more waterfalls than I could count, across the Bechler River, and through Bechler Meadows to Cave Falls and the Bechler Ranger Station.

Our biggest day was eight miles. If there was any day that involved hiking more than 1,000 feet uphill, I don’t remember it.

One day we spent more time soaking in the wonderfully named Mr. Bubbles hot spring than we did on the trail.

It was one of the best trips I’ve ever taken — and as a professional travel writer, I’ve taken some pretty cool trips.

Warning: this isn’t a trip you want to take now, in June. I’m reminiscing and writing about it now looking ahead to late summer and early fall. Now is the time to apply for backcountry permits, though. You need a permit for each night in the area. My friends and I spent three nights out. You could do it in two. If you took four, that’d be fine, too (with possible side hikes to places like Shoshone Lake, you don’t need to worry about getting bored).

Talking to Ranger Brandon at the Yellowstone Backcountry Office last week, mid-July and August are already almost full. “Things really start to drop off in early September though,” he said.

Not that I’ve been into this area any month other than September, but I feel pretty confident writing that it’s the best month to do this trip. This is a very wet area. Just imagining July and August’s Pterodactyl-size mosquitoes makes me itch.

You cross the Bechler River three times, too. You actually cross it more than that, but you cross it three times without the assistance of a bridge of any sort. Going in September will give the river time to come down to a normal level.

And the fall colors. September 18–20 of last year, Joseph’s Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat had nothing on the changing leaves in Bechler Canyon and along the Bechler River the final six miles of the hike.

Yes, this southwest corner of the park is among the more active areas in Yellowstone for grizzly bears. Unbelievably, aside from a particularly fluffy and well-fed coyote in the Lone Star parking lot, our group didn’t see any four-legged wildlife, much less a griz.

Claw marks gouged into the trunk of a lodgepole pine at our last campsite proved that bears — big ones — do visit the area though.

If I were a bear, I’d never leave Mr. Bubbles. One of the park’s most famous backcountry hot springs, my group hit it our second day. I’d marry Mr. Bubbles if I could. Best hot spring ever. You can actually swim in him. And we had him all to ourselves.

Other hike highlights? The profusion of waterfalls in Bechler Canyon: Twister Falls, Colonnade Falls (upper and lower), Iris Falls, Ouzel Falls. Also day one’s side trip to the Shoshone Geyser Basin. Nothing there comes close to Old Faithful, but there isn’t a single fence, sign, bench, or other person there.

And now for the bad news. Cave Falls is only a 32-mile hike from the car you left at Lone Star Trailhead, but it’s a five-hour drive. Seriously. This might be one of the worst car shuttles in the world.

One way around it is to convince a group of friends to hike the trail in the opposite direction as you. If you start by Old Faithful, have your friends start at Cave Falls. Meet in the middle and swap keys.

Another option is to start (or end) the hike at one of the trailheads on the west side of the Grassy Lake Road instead of Cave Falls. You’ll miss a few miles of the Bechler River, but it will make the car shuttle one hour instead of five. Or, you could just spend an entire day doing a car shuttle

Here’s the page to request a backcountry reservation. Want to talk to a backcountry ranger? Call 307-344-2160.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Lions and Tigers and Bears (and Snakes) Oh My!

2011-06-16T08:11:00.000-07:00

By Helen Coronato
The Accidental Cowgirl

With spring taking its time this year, my family had to grab a beautiful, sunny day by the horns and make the best of it. We found that our weekly household chores and store errands are all contingent on the weather report; blue skies and warm weather trump all. This kind of flexibility led to a lovely hike on a recent Saturday afternoon.

When I was a kid, I thought that the seasons more or less changed overnight. I didn’t appreciate the small buds on the trees, the way that everything “wakes up” in the spring – sometimes by jumping out of bed and sometimes with a long yawn. As an adult, I want to appreciate that even the smallest changes in nature are worth pause. This year, I am dedicated to getting outdoors looking for signs of spring I can celebrate with friends and family. Or, in this particular case, back away from slowly.

After a lovely afternoon spent enjoying fresh air and exercise my hiking partners and I headed back downhill to the car. Happily chatting away, we barely realized that the rock in a coiled shape was no rock at all! A small snake was out and about enjoying his day as much as we were. We had hardly continued back down the trail when we came upon another snake, stretched out and relaxing in the wet grass. Although not quite tourist season yet, the trails turned out to be quite crowded that day!

I am not a huge fan of snakes. I don’t run to the reptile exhibits at the zoo and I have no interest in meeting, naming or owning a slithery pet. But there is something about seeing not one, but two snakes, along a hike. It is a reminder that while we are busy getting ready for the change of seasons with garage sales, lawn care and household projects, the rest of nature is also on task. And, of course, that the hiking trails we like to call “our favorites” have many fans. Fans that are clearly checking their weather report too.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com.

Palettes and Palates

2011-06-03T10:24:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Bring a picnic lunch to make the most of Big Horn’s

Bradford Brinton Museum & Memorial.

It shames me, but I’ll admit it. I made half-a-dozen trips over ten years to the Sheridan/Big Horn area before stopping at the Bradford Brinton Memorial & Museum. I’m an idiot.

BBM&M isn’t just a museum with the most wonderfully eclectic collection of, well, everything — historic documents, paintings, sculptures, antique religious texts, books, a lock of Robert Louis Stevenson’s hair. It’s a museum within a museum. The home the collection is housed in (with the exception of pink walls in the dining room), is almost exactly as it was when Brinton died in 1936. Brinton’s younger sister Helen is responsible for the pastel paint.

Wanting to honor her brother’s memory, Helen Brinton’s will established the Bradford Brinton Memorial & Museum in 1960. It opened to the public in 1961, making 2011 its 50^th anniversary year.

So a visit here isn’t just a visit to an awesome collection of art, but also a glimpse into how a gentleman rancher lived in the 1920s and 1930s.

And let me tell you, it seems this one lived pretty good. Even if he slept on a fairly small bed.

Bradford Brinton, whose family made its money in the farm machinery business, bought the Quarter Circle A Ranch outside Big Horn from Scotsman William Moncreiffe in 1923. (A bit of trivia: It was Moncreiffe and his brother helped make polo popular in the area.)

During the 13 years he spent off-and-on here, Brinton — to use modern terminology — pimped out the place. There was an addition to the main house. And then he filled new and old with everything he liked. He seems to have liked the good stuff.

Brinton’s library of more than 5,000 books includes a sub-collection of nature books with original texts painted by Audubon and Rick Brashers. (If you ask museum staff in advance, they’ll put on white cotton gloves and pull one of these books from the stacks in Brinton’s library.)

Among Brinton’s paintings and sculptures are works by Charlie Russell, Frederic Remington, Frank Tenney Johnson, Edward Borein and, lest you begin to think it’s all

Western-themed, a George Bellows lithograph of a Dempsey/Firpo boxing match.

It’s no wonder the Memorial & Museum won the 2010 Wyoming Governor’s Arts Award.

Brinton’s collection also includes all of the 35 Blackfeet portraits by German-American painter Winold Reiss. It was several of these portraits that are the only part of Brinton’s “stuff” to have ever left the ranch house. The National Portrait Gallery did a show on Reiss in 1989 — “To Color America: Portraits by Winold Reiss” — and, as Brinton has all of Reiss’ Blackfeet work, the gallery asked if they could borrow a few. The Blackfeet portraits are important in Reiss’ career as they are among the first portraits he did. Even though the BBM&M’s collection is “closed” — meaning nothing can be added or taken away, even loaned – an exception was made and a handful of these portraits made the trip to Washington D.C. to be part of the exhibition.

Tucked in a corner of Brinton’s library are miniature wax portraits of Ben Franklin and English novelist Henry Fielding by Italian artist Jean-Baptist Nini. This Franklin portrait is one of the few the inventor/author/diplomat/postmaster ever actually sat for.

In a parlor adjacent to Brinton’s bedroom is a document signed by George Washington, an original Lincoln letter and a land indenture agreement on parchment paper signed by William Penn in 1681. There’s also a personal letter of thanks to Brinton by playwright Thornton Wilder. Wilder, who was an undergrad at Yale at the time he wrote Brinton, was thanking the collector for supporting a playwriting competition at the university. Thornton won the award. (Brinton himself graduated from Yale with a degree in engineering in 1904.)

And then there are the grounds. Not that Brinton himself very got to fully enjoy the landscaping he put in 80-some years ago. You should though, by coming here with a picnic. The front yard is giant, with Ponderosa pines you can’t get your arms halfway around. Little Goose Creek bisects the 600-acre property. Animals from coyotes to porcupine, mink, beaver and badgers scurry about. Less frequent visitors — but still popping by occasionally, nonetheless — include black bears, bobcats, and mountain lions.

The Memorial & Museum is open daily 10 a.m.–4 p.m., May 21–Sept. 5 with the exception of Sundays, when it opens at noon. Sept. 10–Oct. 30, the museum is closed Mon.–Wed. and open 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Thurs.–Sat. and noon to 4 p.m. Sundays. Admission is $4 for an adult and $3 for seniors (over 62) and students (13 and over). Kids 12 and under are free.

Images are courtesy of BBM&M.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Vacationing when you live in paradise

2011-05-31T10:03:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

Tiny towns are common in the least populated state in the country.

Wherever I am — Nepal, Kosrae, Elko, San Francisco -— whatever I’m there for –—climbing, hunting for lost pirate treasure, skiing, visiting family -— as soon as it comes out that I’m a visitor, the first question is always the same: “Where are you visiting from?”

If there’s a better answer to that question than, “Wyoming,” I have yet to discover it. Talk about a conversation starter. It seems most everyone in the Western world knows of Wyoming, despite our tiny population and lack of big cities. And they all love it, even if they haven’t been there.

I once read that Steve McQueen brought fiancé Ali McGraw to Cheyenne on the train from Denver to get married because he knew their wedding would be news. He wanted the dateline to read “Cheyenne” instead of “Denver.” Evidently, Denver was just too, well, pedestrian and uninteresting. I get it.

After graduating from college, I could have moved to any number of ski towns. Aspen has cachet. Whitefish is cool because it’s in Montana, where beautiful movies like “A River Runs Through It” were filmed. Vail is huge. But I settled on Jackson.

My beloved Tetons

I didn’t pick Jackson because it had an amazing resort. I could barely ski at the time, so I certainly wasn’t looking for challenging terrain … I do appreciate that amazing resort now, though — but because it was in Wyoming. I liked the idea of living in the least populated state in the country. I had never met anyone from Wyoming before. (A small confession: I might also have picked Jackson in part because I knew Harrison Ford lived there; I had more than a little crush on Indiana Jones.)

I didn’t even know Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks were close to Jackson. Really all I cared about was that it was in Wyoming, the least populated state in the country. The state Harrison Ford lived in. Those things, primarily the former, made it interesting, mysterious and kind of sexy.

When professors would ask a group of students I was in what we were doing post-graduation, my answer, “I’m moving to Wyoming,” stuck out. Others would reply they were going on to consulting jobs in New York or Kansas City or to work for the Federal Reserve Bank in D.C. Once I was in a group that included someone going into the CIA. Even against a classmate about to embark on a career as a spy, my moving to Wyoming most intrigued the economics professor who had asked. He and I talked for 20 minutes about the road trip to Yellowstone his parents took him and his sister on 40 years earlier.

I’m writing this from a spa in Mexico. Upon check in, guests are given a list of everyone there at the same time. This guest list is organized by state. My friend and myself are the sole Wyomingites. Both of us have had people search us out because of it. One woman asked if there really are more cows than people in the state. (I actually don’t know, but I told her there are upwards of 13 different kinds of sage and way more antelope than there are people.)

A 50-something had spent part of the summer of 1977 in Hoback Junction and hadn’t been back since. She wanted to know what it was like now. I told her about the landslide that had closed the Snake River Canyon for two weeks. Overhearing this, one of the few men at the spa asked about the weather. He was literally struck speechless when I told him we had gotten more than 60 feet of snow so far that winter and that it was still snowing. “It’s like another planet,” he said. I nodded my head in agreement, knowing that once you spend some time in the state, May snow is among the least of the things that makes it so magical.

Photo of the Month!

2011-05-20T08:41:00.000-07:00

Kelly Conroy descending from a ridge on BLM land near Lander, Wyoming, through the colors of early summer.

When the grass begins to green up, and the rivers are high and muddy, mountain biking is a terrific Wyoming distraction. The state is laced with some excellent and challenging single track — check with the local US Forest Service, BLM office or local bike shop for more info. "Create your own adventure" rides that stitch together a network of old BLM roads on public land can make for a great day of exploring some of Wyoming's less-visited yet still-stunning landscapes - all within a short drive from home. Hotspots include the divide between Laramie and Cheyenne; Jackson, Dubois, Lander, Cody and Sheridan. Get out and ride Wyoming's trails today!

Credit: schnitzerphoto.com

Russell Schnitzer is an award-winning photographer based in Lander, Wyoming, and ranging throughout the West. Recent gallery shows have been in Denver, Kansas City, and Jackson, WY with awards received for both color and black-and-white images. Publication credits include ESPNOutdoors.com, TU.org, TROUT Magazine, Patagonia (tm) catalogs, Fly Fish America, Fly Rod & Reel, NewWest.net, and several conservation titles. In addition to photography and fly fishing, Russ happily resides in rural Wyoming with his wife, Kelly, along with their two dogs, a cat, and some chickens. Learn more at www.schnitzerphoto.com.

The Road Less Traveled (Because you can’t see it!)

2011-05-10T08:40:00.000-07:00

By Helen Coronato
The Accidental Cowgirl

Growing up with sidewalks, streetlights, railroad crossings and intersections, it was pretty easy to give someone from out of town directions. There are familiar landmarks, highly visible signs and plenty of turning lanes to help travelers on their way. However, in Wyoming, I am learning that the term “road” tends to be used more poetically.

The picture to the left is an actual, drivable “road.” Do you see it? I certainly didn’t. While following the directions to this road, it was hard not to become frustrated with the lack of landmarks and the constant gnawing feeling that “I must be going the wrong way.” It’s in these moments that I want to attend a town hall meeting and pontificate on the finer points of concrete pavement. But between my checking the mayor’s schedule and actually finding my destination, a few ah-ha moments make themselves known:

   1. I moved here to get away from the sidewalks, streetlights, railroad crossings and intersections.
   2. I moved here to get away from the sidewalks, streetlights, railroad crossings and intersections.
   3. I moved here to get away from the sidewalks, streetlights, railroad crossings and intersections.

It’s funny to catch myself wishing for the things I left behind; especially those things that topped my list as reasons to leave in the first place. But when driving around in circles looking for a road that is clearly not there, it’s hard not to want what you have always known. Until you find your way.

After a few under my breath mutterings and a few more deep breaths, I was finally able to see what I had been missing. The road was right there. Carved out in the land was a clear path to my destination. Soon enough, I was on my way; confident that I was finally moving in the right direction.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com.

A Lake Finally Lives Up to Its Name

2011-04-28T13:43:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

I’ve been to Lake Solitude at the back of the main fork of Cascade Canyon in Grand Teton National Park close to two dozen times. How many times have I enjoyed solitude there? Once. Two weeks ago when I had to ski to get there.

I had solitude all the way up and down Cascade Canyon too. (That’s about eight miles each way.)

Yes, it’s work to get to Lake Solitude in winter — in summer too, for that matter — but I’m a fan of seeing familiar places rendered unfamiliar. And I had never seen this part of Grand Teton National Park covered in snow.

A benefit of wanting/waiting to see this part of Grand Teton until late spring? It was nearly 50 degrees when I put my skis on and headed out of the Bradley/Taggart Lake parking lot.

Skiing across Jenny Lake in a t-shirt with the vents of my ski pants thrown open to a warm(ish)

spring breeze, I thought there was nothing better in the world. Although taking a break for a few bites of a Nutella-dominated sandwich in a patch of sunshine on the far shore was a close second.

And then — several hours later — I finally reached Lake Solitude. There wasn’t a single other person in the entirety of that canyon, one of the busiest in the park in the summer. Now that was the best feeling in the world.

A craggy wall dominated the back of the canyon. Above to the southwest, I could just make out the cirque that hugs mini Mica Lake, which glows like the Caribbean Sea when it’s not frozen. Look up to the northeast and there’s Paintbrush Divide, one of my favorite summer hiking routes. Southeast is the Grand, Mt. Owen and Teewinot. And Lake Solitude? It was right there in front of me, but darn if I could tell exactly where. It, like the rest of the canyon, was buried beneath feet of snow and there was no one else around to ask.

That didn’t make the solitude any less lovely though.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Heck No to Heli-Skiing

2011-04-15T14:12:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

I could have been heli-skiing in Sun Valley, Idaho, the first weekend in April. It would have been free. I have never been heli-skiing before.

My husband was telling me to go. Gal and guy friends were telling me to go. My cats were telling me to go. My heart and my skis disagreed however.

To have gone heli-skiing the first weekend in April would have meant that I missed the last weekend ofthe Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s epic (557 inches of snow!) 2010–2011 season. I missed the closing weekend of the 2009–2010 season because I was at a spa in Mexico. Boo. I wasn’t going to miss the best party on snow two years in a row. I don’t think the heli-ski guys believed me when I called with my answer: “Thanks, but no.”

The weather Sunday morning wasn’t auspicious. Wagnerian clouds scudded across the sky, spitting snow. That was better than the previous few days though when the same clouds were spitting rain. Walking off the tram at the top of Rendezvous Mountain was like time traveling to January. Except in January there were no skiers descending Rendezvous Bowl wearing frilly, sequined tutus over their ski pants. Or a giant piece of foam cut and spray-painted to look like a slice of pizza.

The skiing never did get that great that day. The sun popped out a few times, but never long enough to soften up the crust caused by the rain earlier in the week. Still, it was a fabulous day. The stoke at Jackson is always high, but when everyone knows it’s the last chance to ski JHMR for nearly eight months, it’s off the charts. The crazy costumes are only the beginning — there’s a DJ at the base, skiers handing out homemade cookies at the base of the Thunder Lift, and a smile on everyone’s face, even when skiing Sunday’s less-than-stellar conditions. And, yes, there’s beer. Copious amounts of beer. The underground — literally, not “underground” as in secret — bar at the Village Café is more crowded than a tram car.

I prefer the press in the tram though. After all, Sunday was the last day for a good eight months I could ski down Cascade and Alta 1. I can always drink beer.

As soon as the opening day of the 2011–2012 season is announced, I’ll begin my countdown. In the meantime, I’ll wait for this winter’s snow to melt and play on the growing number of mountain bike trails at JHMR. And maybe drink some beer.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store. It was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina updates it regularly.

Photo of the Month!

2011-03-31T12:52:00.000-07:00

The day came on the heels of one that was a true spring beauty. It is March, after all, so spring and winter will continue to play tug-o'-war for a while. But, when a late March day presents itself for fishing, the weather is completely beside the point. We had a plan, and there was little that was going to get in the way.

Heading out to fish still water was a change-up, particularly for this time of the year. We hadn't done it before. We did know that the lake was mostly free of ice — unusual in the neighborhood, where many large ponds still retain a waffly crust. Our bet was on the chance that fish would be cruising the shallows. At the very least, it was to be a reconnaissance mission, and we'd come away from it with some new ideas for spring fish.

For much of the morning, the sky was leaden. The modest wind cut through wet hands and fingers like razor blades. We kept limber by throwing heavy sink tips connected to heavy streamers. A couple of missed takes and glimpses of big fish were surges of adrenaline and heat. As fishing days do, it all slipped past too quickly. A few nice fish were brought to hand, fat and bright rainbows measuring in the low-20s — a memorable reward for an early spring day on new water. As the time came for us to load up and give in to other commitments, the wind died and the sun broke through. I expect we'll return to the lake again soon.

Credits: schnitzerphoto.com

A new winter sport!

2011-03-29T12:24:00.000-07:00

By Dina Mishev

My ski season started with some broken ribs. Bad things happen when I leave Wyoming. Walking around the icy streets of Budapest with some Christmas salami — a gift for my protein-loving husband — in a messenger bag strung across my back, I slipped. But I digress. I merely mention the salami to explain why I spent one of the snowiest Decembers inside on a stationary bike trainer. For the first time in the 14 years I’ve lived in Jackson, the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort opened in November … and it also opened with 100% of its terrain available for skiing. But riding a stationary bike was all I could tolerate with some level of comfort.

A month on the trainer not only got me introduced and caught up on TV shows like "Dexter" (love it!) and "24," but also gave me a fair amount of bike fitness. Mostly healed, what else could I do but buy a snowbike? Like some mountain bikes, it has 27 gears and disc brakes, but the front and rear tires are each four inches wide. The thing is a tank capable of running over anything. Glazed ice included — provided you exercise common sense and don’t try to turn at a fast rate of speed. And it’s a fabulous sparkly metallic moon shadow blue.

I first tested my Salsa Mukluk on the closest groomed track to my home, Cache Creek, in the Bridger-Teton National Forest. Heading out in the winter weather, I wore my Sorels, down mittens, mid-weight long underwear, a pair of Schoeller pants, a lightweight, longsleeve base layer top, wool socks, a hat, two Buffs and my Fitzy’s thermal jacket.

Within five minutes of pedaling out of the parking lot, I was sweating more than I have in any sauna.

Dozen of runs, mountain bike rides and skis up Cache Creek, and I had never realized how much elevation gain there was. Did I mention my Mukluk weighs 34 pounds?

Grand Teton National Park would have been a good next ride. Nearly 20 miles of road right through the middle of the park are closed to cars Nov. 1–May 1 and groomed for use by non-motorized travel. But currently, GTNP and Yellowstone do not differentiate between motorized and non-motorized wheeled vehicles, so snowbikes fall in the same category as ATVs and cars and are not permitted.

So I went to the Civilian Conservation Corps-built Granite Hot Springs, 12 miles south of Hoback Junction on U.S. 191 instead.

I picked my day carefully. Snow biking can be fun. It can also be slush pushing. Good snow biking conditions are the same as good skate skiing conditions: You want temperatures below freezing (you don’t need it to be quite -35, though). You don’t want fresh snow. For a trip to Granite Hot Springs, you want a bathing suit.

The 10-mile ride in takes more time and energy than the 10-mile ride out. It took me about an hour to get in and 45 minutes to get out. Depending on conditions — I had very good ones — and your fitness level (remember I’ve been on an indoor trainer since early December) the roundtrip could take as much as four hours. One dogsled passed me on the ride in. JH Iditarod Sled Dog Tours runs daily trips into the hot springs as well. With the road unplowed and covered with snow, it is impossible to drive in: sled dog, snowmobile, snowbike and skis are the only way in.

After an hour of soaking in the Granite Hot Springs pool ($6 entrance), I was ready to tackle the return trip. I won’t write I didn’t have to pedal, but I did have to pedal much less. And my hot-mineral-water-soothed muscles appreciated it.

Want to try snow biking yourself? Fitzgerald’s Bicycles in Jackson (245 W. Hansen St., next to Snake River Brewing) rents them for $39/day. The shop is open Mon.–Fri. noon–6pm.

Welcome Sights (or Sites)

2011-03-09T14:42:00.000-08:00

By Barbara Graham

Every time I drive back into Wyoming from one of my out-of-state forays, I can feel my breathing change when I see the welcoming sign at the border and I am back where I belong. Don’t get me wrong, I love to visit other states and countries, but this home.

When I first moved here more than 25 years ago, a woman of my acquaintance told me she always carried a golf umbrella in the car in case she was between towns and needed a restroom. Later, suggested by state legislator Peg Shreve, a series of public rest areas was created. “Peg’s Potties” became the nickname of the fabulously welcome rest areas. Scattered along state highways, they seem to be placed so a driver either has a town or rest stop every 50 miles or so. What a blessing! These rest areas also have picnic shelters and usually some information about flora and fauna or interesting history from the local area.

What some people may not realize when looking at a map of our beautiful and sparsely populated state is many of the dots along the highways may have names but they are not towns. The dot may represent a post office, or a former post office or town. In other words, there isn’t a gas station or a rest room anywhere near it. I have driven the hundred miles or so between Casper and Shoshoni many times and have hoped our visitors didn’t glance at the map and plan to spend the night halfway between those towns. That is not the only long stretch of road between towns in Wyoming. Check the size of those dots carefully. Enjoy the drive.

Photo and story by Barbara Graham, a Cody-based mystery writer whose books are set in East Tennessee instead of Wyoming because, well, that's where those imaginary friends happen to live.

The Bearlodge Writers: Serious Storytelling in Sundance, Wyoming

2011-03-03T14:36:00.000-08:00

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

I have wanted to write books since I was a young girl, introduced to reading by my grandparents. I would beg them to read me the same stories over and over again until I had the pages memorized and could “read” myself. I dreamed that one day I would not only be able to read on my own, but actually be a storyteller, too!

While that dream is a reality and I am a professional writer, it had not been the career that I had assumed. For starters, it is extremely solitary. (Nothing inspires you to get up and clean your kitchen like a blank document staring out from your computer screen.) It is also frightening. After all, until you have feedback (read: rejection) from an agent or editor, it’s hard to know how you’re doing. But perhaps the biggest surprise was learning that professional writing is product driven. There are guidelines, criteria, deadlines and a dozen different behind-the-scenes copy editors with very strong opinions of your idea. And while I love being a non-fiction author with several “products,” I have longed to try my hand at writing just for the sake of writing.

Enter the Bearlodge Writers of Sundance, Wyoming.

The Bearlodge Writers have been faithfully meeting for more than 30 years, yet the feel of the group remains fresh, invigorating and completely contemporary. Meetings are held twice a month at the Crook County Public Library, where members arrive promptly with their own meal, a dozen or so copies of the piece they are working on and chocolate (this last rule is as sacred as any other). With a long-standing tradition of respecting the writers, writing, and the group dynamic, published and unpublished authors share rather than correct, inspire instead of condemn, support generously, and criticize constructively.

It’s a thin slice of creative heaven.

These writers take their work and their fellows’ work seriously, offering insights, trends, tips and tricks to best tailor the piece. But the point of the writing is the writing itself. There is no race to complete, compete, publish or publicize (although, of course, that is an exciting goal for some). But whether the poetry, prose, reflection or novel becomes a best seller or just the best piece one has written that week, success is achieved, acknowledged and celebrated just by walking in the door.

And like so many staples in Wyoming culture, the door is always open.

Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visitwww.HelenCoronato.com.

To Lift or Not to Lift?

2011-02-24T09:41:00.000-08:00

By Dina Mishev

Photo courtesy Chris Figenshau

I’ve been riding the lifts — the high-speed quads, the gondola, the tram — at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort since 1997. Last week, an hour after the last lift had closed for the day, 70-some skiers donning headlamps, warm clothes, high spirits and special bindings skied up the mountain. A few hours later, after enjoying beer and appetizers at the mid-mountain Casper restaurant, everyone — laughing, pushing and headlamps glowing — skied down together.

But perhaps you’re still stuck on the fact everyone first skied uphill. I know, it sounds crazy. Why expend the energy skiing uphill when the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has 12 perfectly good lifts? Well, everyone was participating in the very first Nachtspektakel, or German for social ski tour, to be held in the U.S.

Uphill skiing is nothing new; Europeans have been going crazy for it for decades, and it's under consideration to be included in the 2018 Winter Olympics. Also called alpine touring, randonee skiing, and ski mountaineering, the sport has been celebrated by JHMR for the past decade — it was one of the first resorts in the country to host a race. For several years, the Jackson race was the North American Ski Mountaineering Championships, but then Canada started its own race. So, for the past four years the Jackson race has been called the US Ski Mountaineering National Championships.

Photo courtesy of Powder Magazine

But the 2011 US Ski Mountaineering National Championships, which included 8,200 feet of uphill skiing and hiking on some of the resort’s most challenging terrain, is a very different beast from a leisurely social ski tour with an intermission for beer and appetizers. The Nachtspektakel was the first time there was relaxed randonee skiing done on either of JHMR’s two mountains.

While there’s no chance uphill skiers will ever outnumber those who prefer JHMR’s lifts,

Nachtspektakel was a fun way to experience the mountain, and a great way for the community to feel a part of the big race.

A 14-year resident of Jackson, Dina Mishev is the author of Total Tetons, an app available in the iTunes store, and the former world record holder for the most vertical feet skied uphill in 24 hours. Total Tetons was named a “New & Noteworthy” app by Apple when it launched in June 2010. Dina set her World Record in February 2009. An Italian woman bested it in April 2009.

“Wagons, Ho!” Riding Wyoming’s Historic Trails

2011-02-22T10:38:00.000-08:00

By P. Taylor Huff

Growing up with Western television shows and novels, we decided to “Go West!” on vacation and scheduled a wagon-train trail ride with a family-run business outside of Casper. The day before our ride, we toured Casper’s National Historic Trails Interpretive Center to learn the history of four main wagon trails that crossed the North Platte River here: the Oregon trail, the Pony Express to California, the Mormon trail and the California Gold Rush route.

The following morning, we met Katrena, our trail guide, at Fort Caspar. She drove us over dirt roads to a horse trailer with several horses and mules tied to it. Nearby stood a lone, covered wagon built from authentic plans by Katrena’s father. After hitching two large Percheron mules to the wagon, our trail leaders saddled our mounts, two cow ponies and a 17-year-old mule named Zeb. Katrena told us about when her family rode Zeb, horses and covered wagons from Independence, MO, to Oregon for the 1993 sesquicentennial commemoration of the first large westbound wagon train.

Riding behind the covered wagon over the wide-open range stretching up to Casper Mountain, we watched the “prairie schooner” rock violently, creaking and groaning as the mules pulled it over the uneven original trail ruts. Its rugged construction and design allowed it to flex without breaking.

Rabbits and horned toads scurried from under silvery sagebrush, prairie dogs whistled warnings from countless holes that our mounts carefully avoided, and pronghorn grazed in the distance as turkey vultures hovered above in the unceasing, cool wind.

While we stopped for lunch, Katrena used her (21st-century) cell phone to ask her father to drive out to weld a cracked wheel rim. He said most wagon trains had wheelwrights and other tradesmen in their parties to keep their wagons rolling.

Our ride ended near the Red Butte Battle site, where Native Americans attacked an army supply train on its way to Fort Caspar. We left Casper understanding it was not “romance” that settled the West, but rather the courage and determination of some 400,000 19th-century pioneers who trekked across plains, rivers, deserts and mountains in search of riches, religious freedom and better lives for themselves and their families.

P. Taylor Huff writes about travel, nature and children’s adventure stories.

Whoa!

2011-02-08T08:49:00.000-08:00

Final Stage of the International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race

The biggest event of its kind in the continental U.S. came to a halt over the weekend after making stops in several western Wyoming communities. The International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race was welcomed with open arms by the townsfolk in Evanston, Wyoming located at the southwestern edge of the state near the border shared with Utah:

DOGS

The Wyoming sled dog race has run annually since 1996. You can obtain complete information and prepare for next year here: http://www.wyomingstagestop.org/

Summer Days in the Middle of Winter

2011-02-02T13:38:00.000-08:00

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

Although you may not know it, my former stomping grounds, New Jersey, is considered “The Garden State.” Yes, it has the infamous Jersey Turnpike, but it also has acres upon acres of rich, fertile land, bearing an abundance of fresh, seasonal produce. My boys have always enjoyed picking everything from apples to zucchini, and I worried that the Black Hills might not have the same seasonal opportunities. Fortunately, I learned that the land here, like its people, are very generous.

Late last summer we enjoyed family apple picking at a neighbor’s orchard. It was the same day the owners had planned to use their apple cider press, so the time-honored tradition included a new aspect, too. The boys dutifully tested many apples and enjoyed several cups of cider while making new friends, running around the orchard and getting a tour of the farm. Back at home, we peeled, cored, cooked and jarred our hand-picked selections, being sure to share with our loved ones (and same some for ourselves).

This past week, as the snow continued to blanket everything it could find, we opened a jar of our homemade apple butter and enjoyed it with warm oatmeal and raisins. All at once we were transported back to our apple-picking adventure, recapturing some of the summer’s warmth right there in the middle of winter.

I have used the same apple butter recipe for a few years now. It was given to me by my good friend Kira. We alter it when need be, depending on what we on hand. Like any great kid-friendly activity, we don’t let a long list of must-haves cramp our style but have made this recipe our own. And, yes, you can make it with store-bought apples; heck, you can even just buy apple sauce from the store. But that seems a lot like reading about the West versus spending an afternoon feeling marvelously insignificant under its big sky as you climb one of her apple trees. Part of living in the Black Hills has meant seeking out the activities we have long loved and looking for a new place to experience them. As it turns out, the abundance of Wyoming’s seasonal yields makes it possible to celebrate the dog days of summer even when Jack Frost is nipping at your nose.

Kira’s Crock Pot Apple Butter Recipe

4 lbs (approxiamately12 cups) peeled and sliced apples

1/2 cup honey

1/2 cup cider

2 tbsp cider vinegar

2 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground cloves

1/8 tsp allspice

1/8 tsp nutmeg

A Sustainable Future for the West’s History

2011-01-31T14:06:00.000-08:00

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

When Mitch Mahoney was approached by community members to use his expertise as a long-time archeologist to become director of the Hulett Museum and Art Gallery, it was a natural fit for the Wyoming native. Believing the town of 409 was in need of a museum to preserve its rich and vibrant history, Mitch has made fast work of acquiring, organizing and displaying highly regarded local talent, well-known Western artists, archeological finds, paleontology pieces and Native American culture. With the building undergoing a facelift, Mitch is committed to the museum’s future and recently hosted its first Art Auction and Cocktail Reception.

For me, growing up on the East Coast, school trips often meant walking through stuffy museums and standing behind a velvet rope to catch a glimpse of a famous painting while listening to a very bored tour guide tick off facts about the piece. Ho hum. Art seemed very off limits — something I was supposed to appreciate, but couldn’t really understand. I wonder how different my impression of the art world would have been if I had started at Hulett’s museum and attended events such as this art auction.

Here’s a short list of the rule breaking that went on:

• NO ONE spoke in hushed voices

• Guests were ENCOURAGED to look around while carrying food and drinks

• Some of the artists were actually THERE to talk with

• The auction itself was lively, animated and INTERESTING

• 31 pieces were SOLD to collectors, enthusiasts, neighbors and fans amid laughter, story telling and good-natured bidding

• EVERYONE wants the museum to succeed

And perhaps that last point is the most important. the Hulett Museum and Art Gallery proves that art, history and community do not have to be on opposite sides of the spectrum. In Wyoming, where trail hikes still turn up arrowheads and cowboys still move cows, there is a reverence for history as it’s told through art (and for the stories which are being written right now). Supporting, encouraging, creating and owning art not only means that the museum will have a sustainable future, but that the West will too.

To learn more about contributing to the collection or planning your next visit to the Hulett Museum and Art Gallery please contact director Mitch Mahoney, at 307-467-5292 during their winter hours Mon.–Fri. 8am–5pm and Sat. 10am–2pm.

Getting Into Hot Water

2011-01-26T14:36:00.000-08:00

By Barbara Graham

The first time I ever heard of Thermopolis, Wyoming, was when a cartoon character popped out of a hole and read the sign with much juicy lisping. It made me laugh, but at the time, I didn’t know it was a real place. Now I know it’s not only real, but also a very nice place, and I go there fairly often.

On the edge of town is Hot Springs State Park. Famous for its hot mineral pools, the park has picnic areas, walking trails winding around the hot springs and a beautiful formation known as the Rainbow Terrace. Still, the naturally hot mineral water is the star attraction, and there are many ways to enjoy it. There are indoor pools, outdoor pools, waterslides, hot tubs, even a vapor cave — all celebrating the soothing, maybe even healing, powers of the hot springs. Motels in the park have their own hot pools.

A great day, year-round, includes a trip to the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, a stop for espresso and a book or gift at The Storyteller and a good long soak in the hot springs. Want more? Have a massage. A couple of miles south of Thermopolis, you can drive through the beautiful Wind River Canyon to Boysen Reservoir or try the fishing, rafting and camping along the Big Horn River.

Photo and story by Barbara Graham, a Cody-based mystery writer whose books are set in East Tennessee instead of Wyoming because, well, that's where those imaginary friends happen to live.

Golden winter

2011-01-15T08:00:00.000-08:00

During the winter, golden eagles from Alaska and Canada migrate south to Wyoming to spend the bitter cold season, joining our resident eagles that decline to move even farther south.

Recent research has attempted to present a West-wide population estimate for golden eagles. The research, conducted by Western EcoSystems Technology (WEST) of Cheyenne, indicated that Wyoming has 4,174 pairs of breeding golden eagles, the highest of any state and nearly half of the known breeding population in the West.

But one of my favorite research citations involves a survey conducted by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service personnel in the early 1970s. FWS personnel recorded their golden eagle observations as they went about their duties, driving, year-round. The number of golden eagles observed per 1,000 kilometers (about 621 miles) ranged from 1.2 in Arizona to 10.4 in Wyoming. The more recent WEST research involved aerial surveys for goldens and detected 12 eagles per 1,000 km.

That’s a lot of eagles. No matter how many, I’m always glad to encounter those golden-booted eagles.

Photo and story by Cat Urbigkit, an award-winning writer and photographer based on a western Wyoming sheep ranch, where she receives much inspiration for her work. Visit Cat online at www.paradisesheep.com and on Facebook.

Photo of the Month!

2011-01-13T14:10:00.000-08:00

By Russell Schnitzer

Presented with an opportunity to spend the Christmas holiday weekend in Jackson, Wyoming, we couldn't think of a better way to mark the occasion. Just three hours from our home in Lander, Grand Teton National Park in the winter is a world away from airport terminals, security screenings, delayed or canceled flights, or, at best, icy interstates. Winter is a special time in northwestern Wyoming, and the holiday season is a perfect time to take advantage of all it has to offer.

With nordic skate skiing in mind, we arrived at the Taggart Lake trailhead on the afternoon of Christmas eve. This image, taken near Jenny Lake as the sun was beginning to fade, attempts to share the trail's spectacular setting.

Locals know that Grand Teton National Park is a world-class destination for nordic skiers. Here, trails are easily accessible, regularly groomed for both skate and classic, and offer incredible views.

Subject: Kelly Conroy

Credit: schnitzerphoto.com

Beauty in Emptiness

2010-12-21T10:16:00.000-08:00

By Dina Mishev

Last month I drove from Jackson to Sheridan. Not wanting to concentrate on the road — I was deep into an audio book and I feared the twisty Powder River Pass would be too distracting — I opted to go via Casper and the ruler-straight U.S. 20/26. Sharing this route choice with friends, the response was always the same and went something like this: “I’m sorry. I’d rather get a paper cut on my eye than drive through that no man’s land.”

It turned out there was no need to feel sorry for me at all. In fact, I found myself pulling over to take photos of the scenery. Seriously. It was beautiful.

Sure, the stretch of U.S. 20/26 from Shoshoni to Moneta, Hiland, Powder River, Natrona and finally Casper doesn’t have the smack-you-in-the-face, incontrovertible beauty of the Tetons, or even of the Wind River as it winds beneath red cliffs outside Dubois. The vastness between Shoshoni and Casper is more an acquired taste, or perhaps requires a particular mood to be appreciated. I remember making this same drive — and similar ones around the state — numerous times, thinking there had to be more life on the moon and getting depressed. There was just nothing to be seen.

And that’s what I finally found beautiful. How many states have swaths of land — swaths lasting for thousands of square miles — populated by nothing but cattle, sage, snow fence, the occasional power line and drilling rig, and Tiffany-blue sky?

I love Wyoming for many reasons, but this drive solidified in my mind the state’s finest attribute: unencumbered space.

This time, I was in a mood where open space stood for possibility rather than loneliness. It wasn’t standing for the possibility of the land one day being developed — the sage flats filled with power stations, malls or go-kart tracks — but the possibility of solitude and silence in a vast landscape. You can find solitude and silence in the Tetons, at Vedauwoo, in the Big Horns and any number of other places in the state. But in those places, there’s always a ridge, corner or tree behind which something is hiding. In the center of Wyoming, there’s nothing hiding; it’s boundless.

Driving through it, I found myself bringing that boundless-ness into my life; that job I thought an impossibility became possible; a stale idea was rejuvenated; I decided to take a trip I had been on the fence about. The landscape energized me.

So much for that audio book.

Jackson-based Dina Mishev writes for Sunset, AAA Via, Hemispheres, Big Sky Journal, Outside, National Geographic Traveler and Shape, among other publications. She is also one of the hosts of the Wyoming PBS show Wyoming Chronicle. See more of her work at dinamishev.com and Follow her on Twitter. Her iPhone/iPad/iPod Touch app about the Tetons, Total Tetons, is available in the iTunes store.

Let it Snow

2010-12-16T10:43:00.000-08:00

By Helen Coronato

The Accidental Cowgirl

Snowed-in Wyoming cabin, photo by Twylia Waugh

When I lived on the East Coast, snow storms were few and far between. We often got snow, but it usually resulted in a few inches and a delayed school opening, and was more menace than merriment. But when a 13-inch powdery white blizzard blew into the Black Hills, the community buttoned up for a true snow day.

Before relocating, we were “warned” about the long and difficult winters in Wyoming. Tales of back-to-back snow storms where we would be trapped in the house for days were common cautionary tales. How would we cope with being isolated, cut off and shut in? B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L-L-Y!

One of our favorite things about living in the Black Hills is the actual living. If it snows, people actually enjoy staying home. Yes, Wyoming is chock full of fantastic winter activities where you can be outdoors: skis, snowmobiles, horses and hikes; but winter in Wyoming is also a time for hibernation, retreat and quiet. Cold temperatures encourage friends and family to stay home, working in and on the house, revisiting hobbies and projects and pursuing more restful activities. If there is a time for every season, than Wyoming residents have mastered a “what to do when” approach that serves them well. It doesn’t surprise me at all that my New Jersey neighbors would fret over being cut off, as the idea that you must have a full-force-momentum year round seems to be the status quo.

For our first big snow day, we baked, read, played board games and brewed hot tea. But most of all, we didn’t worry about what we were missing — everything we needed was already there.

A Day in Douglas

2010-12-09T09:37:00.000-08:00

I recently spent a day in Douglas and wished I had more time to explore it and the surrounding area. The jackalope in my photograph is the statue in front of the information center and Chamber of Commerce office, and there are many more jackalopes in and around the town of Douglas. The quasi-mythical jackalope was created in Douglas and is a cross between a jackrabbit and an antelope. The railroad is another popular attraction in Douglas. The locomotive pictured is not a toy, but rather one of several train cars parked near the Chamber building. A friend told me I could get permission to go inside if I asked at the Chamber office. Another good place to explore is the Pioneer Museum on the State Fair grounds.

The fair is in August, but the museum is open year-round and is filled with a mixture of items from the area. (Ruts worn into the earth by wagons on the Oregon Trail can be visited only a few miles from town). I didn’t know before my visit that there was a POW camp near Douglas during WWII. A group of incarcerated Italians painted murals in what was at that time the officer’s club. Although not currently open to the public, you can contact the Chamber of Commerce to arrange a special visit for a group of at least 20. For day trips near Douglas, friends suggested I drive to Esterbrook, traveling on 15 miles of pavement and 15 miles of dirt — “beautiful and peaceful” was the common description. Or, take a side trip north and visit the Glenrock Paleontological Museum. It isn’t open every day so be sure to check ahead.

Photo and story by Barbara Graham, a Cody-based mystery writer whose books are set in East Tennessee instead of Wyoming because, well, that's where those imaginary friends happen to live.

Falconry in Wyoming

2010-11-29T16:05:00.000-08:00

One recent afternoon as I was returning home from visiting a friend, I turned down a Sublette County road that traverses through the sagebrush uplands next to the New Fork River and noticed a pickup truck out in the sage, with two men near the tailgate, with a bird dog. Intrigued, I drove by slowly, and finally one of the men moved just enough for me to get a glimpse of a peregrine falcon in the back of the truck.

With colder temperatures and occasional snowstorms triggering the changing of the seasons, most recreationalists leave western Wyoming’s public lands while awaiting snowy opportunities, but for others, it’s at last time to go out — it’s time to hunt Greater Sage Grouse with falcons.

I stopped my truck and backed up, shutting off the motor to inquire if they were about to be in pursuit of sage grouse. The falconers, here from California, invited me to have a look at their birds. After we had a very pleasant visit in the sagebrush, I ended up accompanying the men on a hunt the next day.

The falconry season for sage grouse begins September 1 and continues to March 1. The sea of sagebrush comes alive with scattered groups of falconers and their birds, going after a game bird more than twice the size of the falcons that will take the birds from the air. This is a team sport involving multiple species, as a bird dog and human work together to find and flush the grouse, with the falcon hitting the bird in air at speeds of over 200 miles an hour.

Although populations have declined and may be in jeopardy in other regions of the west, western Wyoming remains a stronghold for sage grouse — it has a higher density of sage grouse than any other place on the planet. Falconers have taken note of this fact and travel to this region in small groups to have a quality hunting experience in a quiet and beautiful landscape.

Photos and story by Cat Urbigkit, an award-winning writer and photographer based on a western Wyoming sheep ranch, where she receives much inspiration for her work. Visit Cat online at www.paradisesheep.com and on Facebook.

Catching up with an old friend

2010-11-15T08:25:00.000-08:00

It is an Easter-basket sunrise. Yellow in the east blends into pastels of pink, purple and, in the far western arc of the sky, green and robin’s-egg blue. The lights of Jackson, 1,500 feet below me, still twinkle, and I can still pick out the brightest: the red neon “Emergency” stretching over the hospital; the glow of Couloir, the mid-mountain restaurant across the valley at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; and the lights at the Flat Creek Inn.

In the distance, the silhouette of the Tetons is visible. Thanks to a recent storm, the snow line has dropped — only the bottom thousand feet or so are brown. One more storm and they’ll be white for the winter.

The 1.7-mile hike up Snow King and the views from the top encompass everything I love about living in Jackson Hole.

For the past month, I’ve been a traveling fool. The longest I’ve been at my home in Jackson? 38 hours. Even now, typing this, I’m sitting in a coffee shop in Springerville, Arizona. Last week I was in Sheridan. The week before was Washington state. The week before that was a different part of Arizona. It’ll be almost another week before I’m back in Jackson. At least then I’ll be home for an entire eight days before taking off for Budapest.

But I digress. Back to 38 hours. It isn’t enough time to reconnect with friends or catch up with my life. But it is enough time to remind myself why — even with all the fancy, far-flung, exotic places around the world my job as a travel journalist takes me — I call Jackson home. One hike up Snow King is all it takes.

Thirteen years ago, I discovered Snow King, the “in-town” ski hill that is a hiker’s and mountain biker’s haven come summer, the first week I moved to Jackson. I’d hike up it at dawn before work every day. And again over my lunch hour. And then again (sometimes twice more) after work. I know; it was excessive. I rationalized away my crush by telling myself the King was accessible, it was a great place to meet people, and it was a quick way for me to get in shape. (I wasn’t the fittest person when I moved to Jackson from Chicago.) And there was that amazing view from the summit: town so neat and contained; the Tetons dominating the north and west; the Gros Ventres the east; and Flat Creek about ties itself in knots as it winds through the National Elk Refuge.

My life is drastically different from what it was 13 years ago. With the exception of a re-route at the very bottom, Snow King is the same. The tree with Technicolor green moss growing on its downhill side on the second-to-last switchback is still there. The loose rocks right at the last switchback are still there. I’m still bound to see familiar faces along the way — even if the faces themselves have changed over the years. The view from the summit is still there. Snow King still stands sentinel over town. The house I lived in when I first moved here is gone. The car I had? Gone. The job I had as a paralegal? Long gone.

Walking up Snow King, it’s not the differences I think about though. Instead, I’m still an awestruck young woman who can’t believe this is her home.

Contributed by Jackson-based Dina Mishev, who writes for Sunset, AAA Via, Hemispheres, Big Sky Journal, Outside, National Geographic Traveler and Shape, among other publications. She is also one of the hosts of the Wyoming PBS show Wyoming Chronicle. See more of her work at dinamishev.com and Follow her on Twitter. Her iPhone/iPad/iPod Touch app about the Tetons, Total Tetons, is available in the iTunes store.

Timberman Saddles Up for the NFR

2010-11-07T08:00:00.000-08:00

Wyoming cowboy Kelly Timberman is getting ready to compete in the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas, taking place Dec. 2–11. It's his seventh-straight trip to the all-star event, and Timberman is hoping to close out an amazing season by taking the title in bareback riding, which he describes in three words: Intense. Extreme. Physical.

That sounds like an understatement to me, but then again, you're not going to catch me on a bucking horse any time soon. Intrigued, I caught up with the daredevil cowboy from Mills to get the scoop on what drives him to risk life and limb in the ring. Click here to read our interview.

How to Find a Cup of Coffee that Truly Fills You Up

2010-11-05T16:03:00.000-07:00

I never had a coffee place. I mean, I have often found a place convenient to my house where I would stop for a cup of coffee; but a place to call my own? Unfortunately, no.

Recently we moved to Wyoming, and my convenient place to get a morning cup of coffee (conveniently!) became my brother-in-law’s restaurant. And while I think the coffee here is just about the best in the county, I wasn’t expecting much more than a satisfying pick me up.

But out West, stopping for a morning coffee isn’t just a routine; it’s a ritual.

Annette has been serving breakfast at the Ponderosa Café in Hulett, Wyoming, for as long as I can remember. As the opener, she gets the coffee going, greets morning patrons and carries out more plates of pancakes than I can count. For sure, a sunrise scene replayed in restaurants all over the country. But as I stirred in my sweetener one morning it became increasingly apparent that while she had the menu memorized, she wasn’t just going through the motions. She stopped to chat with everyone she knew by name and made visiting tourists feel right at home. Well equipped with a coffee pot in one hand and check pad in the other, she managed to keep the entire restaurant humming and happy, with regulars ordering their usual and travelers getting a refill for the road.

All at once I realized…I had stepped into the place.

Small towns throughout Wyoming are built around this kind of place. A place where everybody is known and everybody counts. When we chose to move to Wyoming from New Jersey, we did so to be closer to extended family. Surprisingly, we have ended up closer to each other, history, beauty and God. What I have found in Wyoming is my place. Who knew a cup of coffee could do so much?

Contributed by Helen Coronato, The Accidental Cowgirl. Helen is a professional writer living in Hulett, Wyoming. When not trying to remember to ask for a sack instead of a "bag" when buying pop (not "soda!"), she and her family are out exploring the Black Hills and busy making the West, home. For more information, visit www.HelenCoronato.com

How One East Coast Family Decided to Go Forever West

2010-10-27T09:13:00.000-07:00

“What brings you all the way out here?”

Since relocating to Wyoming from New Jersey in June of this year, I have been asked this question more times than I can count, and for good reason. NJ conjures up images of bright lights, big cities and bigger populations. Interestingly, most people who ask me why we moved here tend to assume that we long for what we left behind.

For example, several people have commented that we must miss all the conveniences of the East Coast. While it’s true that you do have every convenience imaginable at your fingertips, what you are hard pressed to find is a helping hand. Yet when we moved into town with a seriously packed truck, it was the kids at my brother-in-law’s restaurant who showed up early morning to help us unload.

Neighborhood moms stopped me on the street and in the store to introduce themselves and invite our children over to play. And the community’s citizens who have lived here so long they share the same name as the town’s streets welcomed us with a smile and “glad you’re here!” So much for not fitting in.

Others have commented that we must miss all the programming available for kids. Yes, there are tons of places to go, but you do so only after you lock up your house, secure your car and protect your kids by reminding them for the 14^th time that week not to let go of your hand, talk to strangers or go to the bathroom alone. Here, there are children playing (playing!) outside without hovering parents, high-priced plastic “enrichment” toys, or head-to-toe protective gear. My sons have discovered that three sticks, two shovels and one hole can be extremely entertaining. Watching them play together outside with Devils Tower as the backdrop is overwhelmingly beautiful.

While we appreciated that we were moving, we never expected to be so moved. The hospitality and warmth of the West, coupled with its breathtaking splendor, has always attracted us. When we found ourselves returning from a WY summer vacation wishing we were “there” instead of “here,” we knew it as time to go. In a testament to what the “West” really means, finally moving here didn’t actually feel like relocating…it felt like coming home.

We are grateful, proud and humble to have gone Forever West.

Beck Lake Park: Perfect for Pooches

2010-10-22T10:01:00.000-07:00

Coming into Cody from the south or east, the highway passes a series of small lakes on the edge of town. Beck Lake and several other smaller lakes make up the area known as Beck Lake Park.

The loop around the two upper lakes is my dogs’ favorite place. Luckily, I enjoy it too. With plenty of parking, the paved walking path has bag dispensers for dogs and potties for people. The walk is two miles long, but there is a crossover between the lakes if that seems too far or time is short. A side road leads to a group picnic area and access to Beck Lake.

My dogs insist on exploring it year-round. They are not intrigued by the wheelchair-friendly fishing decks, fishing from the shore or ice fishing, but one dog is always looking for a chance to catch other critters. She nabbed a little member of a chipmunk family one winter day and has never forgiven me for making her release it. While she is checking for critters, my preference is watching the birds. I’m not a bird expert, but even I can recognize ducks, pelicans, herons, swallows, bluebirds and osprey. I have seen a pelican dive from the sky into the water and emerge with a fish, and I've watched a duck family herding the fuzzy babies away from the shore. The chatterbox magpies with their gleaming blue-black feathered tuxedos are the equivalent of sports commentators.

Surrounding the park is a panorama of hills, mountains, the airport and the town. Today, the trees are turning from green to gold, the harbinger of the quiet season. Winter will arrive. Last year the almost-frozen surface moved under a gentle breeze and the ice sang, sounding like wind chimes. Singing water. I hope it happens again. If it does, the dogs will be sure I’m up there to hear it.

Contributed by Barbara Graham
Photos by Barbara Graham

The Leaves They Are a-Changin'

2010-09-30T14:29:00.000-07:00

Every year as August comes to a close, I find myself wishing summer could last forever. But as soon as I see the first leaves turn crimson and yellow and feel the first cool, refreshing breezes of September, I get so excited for fall.

But a funny thing about fall is that if you blink, you might miss it. OK, not really, but it's important to take time to stop, look around and really notice everything that makes fall so fantastic: crisp blue skies, fresh apple cider, animals out to play, digging out your favorite sweater and, of course, those gorgeous autumn colors.

My favorite way to truly appreciate fall is to set aside a day or two for a road trip. It doesn't really matter if it's just an afternoon drive to a town an hour away or if it's a long-haul, windows-down adventure. The important thing is to not let this lovely season pass you by. If you need some ideas for fall day trips, click here. And be sure to check out roadtripwyoming.com, where you can find trip ideas and share your own Wyoming road trip stories.

Haunted Wyoming

2010-09-20T16:25:00.000-07:00

Want to know which Wyoming hotel's halls are haunted by a pair of ghostly Siamese cats? How about a library with enough eerie activity to warrant a "ghost log"? If you're anything like me, you love getting ready for Halloween (yes, it's really that close!) with a good ghost story — and in Wyoming we've got plenty of 'em.

Check out this story about Wyoming’s most infamous paranormal residents and discover that Wyoming’s rich and wild history isn’t limited to outlaws and pioneers. You're sure to get a tingle up your spine...and find out where to get a ghostly roommate for a night!

Photo: Flickr/dawnzy

Family Vacation in the Tetons

2010-09-20T09:03:00.000-07:00

Submitted by Michell, Wyoming Office of Tourism staff

We headed for Grand Teton National Park to stay a few nights at Signal Mountain Lodge. We scored a great cabin on the edge of Jackson Lake with gorgeous views and the kids loved hanging out at the lake shore throwing rocks in the water. We had heard that Signal Mountain Lodge had great blackberry margaritas so my husband and I tested them out after a hike around the area. Yep, they’re pretty tasty. I also ordered the blackberry pie one night after dinner and it was delicious. Highly recommend anything blackberry at Signal Mountain Lodge.

We also participated in the Bar T Five Covered Wagon Cookout & Wild West Show out of Jackson which was a lasting memory for the kids riding in the covered wagons pulled by horses. My husband really enjoyed the breakfast cruise on Jackson Lake to Elk Island where we were treated to a wonderful meal of eggs, sausage, trout, etc. And the views from the top of Elk Island were spectacular. We were also fortunate enough throughout our vacation to see an abundance of wildlife including a grizzly bear, moose, elk, deer and pelicans. I really enjoyed our last day taking the boat across Jenny Lake and hiking to Hidden Falls with the family. We took lots of pictures and I posted a few on Facebook when we returned. The first few comments on a photo of the kids from the top of Elk Island asked, “is that a real backdrop?” Yes, Wyoming scenery is just that pretty.

Locals Know Best

2010-09-03T09:54:00.000-07:00

Nobody knows Wyoming towns better than the people who live here, so we thought we'd ask some longtime locals from Cheyenne, Rock Springs, Casper, Jackson and Devils Tower about their favorite places to eat, shop, get outdoors and have fun in their region of the state.

We'd love to hear about your favorite Wyoming places, too. Share them here or come on over to our Facebook page.

Wild Horses!

2010-08-26T10:18:00.000-07:00

Nicki and I were so excited to drive the Pilot Butte Wild Horse Scenic Loop Tour, which runs between Green River and Rock Springs. The 23-mile road offers access to beautifully barren land where herds of horses run wild. I have never been to a place where you can see so far in every direction. It was almost humbling.

We started in Green River, and it didn't take long until we were treated to some stunning vistas of distant mountains and, of course, lonely Pilot Butte — that's Nicki on the car roof photographing the striking butte. Not long after, we spotted some wild horses! Well, sort of. They were on a ridge in the distance, but unfortunately too far away to snap a photo. We tried to get closer, but they ran off and we didn't see them again. Still, it was exciting, and it really hit home how truly untouched Wyoming is. We got out of the car at one point and walked a hundred yards or so down a trail. When we looked back, we couldn't believe how tiny and out of place our car looked in the vastness.

Next time, I hope to see some wild horses up close, but the drive was still well worth the trip!

Gorgeous Star Valley

2010-08-19T10:53:00.000-07:00

We headed south to Star Valley after we left Jackson, and I’m telling you: anyone who doesn’t venture this way is really missing out. In the space of 150 or so miles, we stopped in Alpine, Thayne and Afton, met so many welcoming people and saw an immeasurable amount of beautiful scenery. The area is so lush, with Highway 89 snaking along the valley floor next to the Snake and Salt rivers for much of the drive. We finally had a chance to explore some of the wilderness near Afton at the Intermittent Spring, which runs for 18 minutes and then abruptly stops for another 18. It’s one of only three such periodic springs in the world, and the short hike through the canyon along Swift Creek is absolutely stunning. To get there, take Second Avenue east out of Afton for five miles until you reach a dead end. Continue on foot for about 10–15 minutes until you reach the end of the trail and look for the spring bursting out of the rock wall across the creek. It’s an easy hike; we even saw a family with toddlers on the trail!

Top of the World

2010-08-18T07:02:00.000-07:00

Nicki and I rode the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort aerial tram (4,139 feet!) up Rendezvous Mountain yesterday morning, and we were amazed by the spectacular views of Jackson Hole as well as the diversity of people enjoying the high-altitude access — there were families lining up for the famous "top-of-the-world" waffles at Corbet’s Cabin, an elderly couple taking in the vistas and group of young women about to embark on a three-day backpacking trip through the Tetons. I don’t know if I’ve ever seen people so excited to sleep under the stars, but it was infectious. Nicki and I wished them well as they marched off down a trail, but we both admitted that we also wished we were going with them! I am already thinking it sounds like the perfect adventure for next summer...

A Jackson Hole Welcome

2010-08-17T22:16:00.000-07:00

What a beautiful day in Wyoming! My photographer partner, Nicki, and I arrived in Jackson to explore and do research for the Wyoming Official Travelers Journal (disclosure: I’m the editor). We checked in at Teton Mountain Lodge and Spa in Teton Village, and the first thing I noticed was the clean, alpine smell that I always LOVE about luxury mountain hotels (there are plenty of ’em at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort). We were tempted to simply relax by the big lobby fireplace, but we had reservations down the road at Bar J Chuckwagon Suppers, a dinner and music experience that takes inspiration from the chuckwagons that used to feed cowboys on long cattle drives. We ate our delicious chow at one of the long wooden tables with a family from Utah who told us the Bar J is their first stop every time they’re in Jackson. After the live cowboy music show, we headed back to the hotel completely tuckered out but excited for the next day’s adventure. Well...almost! We couldn’t pass up heading next door for a cold beer at the Mangy Moose Saloon, a Teton Village institution that didn’t disappoint.

Take a Hike

2010-04-29T14:32:00.000-07:00

“Here are your waters and your watering place. Drink and be whole again beyond confusion.” - Robert Frost

You go on vacation to get away from it all. Take a hike in Wyoming on that vacation and you really will get away from it all; and return with new eyes with which to see the world. Wyoming offers solitude within a short drive and an easy walk for beginning hikers. For the more advanced adventurer, the wilderness stretches for many days and several starry nights.

We asked Wyoming Tourism’s friends on Facebook to share their favorite hikes:

Riverton Chamber:
I would have to say my favorite place to hike is sink's canyon up to the waterfall. It's definitely doable if you take your time and enjoy all there is to see on your way up but it is a very steep climb.

Jeff:
West side of the Tetons - the hike into Wind Cave. Intermediate. ^^^

Lodore:
Penrose Trail out of Story in the Big Horn Mountains is probably the best kept trail secret in the state! Intermediate to Advanced.

Tyson:
I like going up Ferrys Peak here in Alpine, its right across from the flying saddle resort

Brandon:
I agree with riverton sinks canyon to the waterfall is beautiful and great when you get to the top because you can go swimming

Christine:
So hard to pick just one! Snowy Range has got to be my all time favorite place. I love the hike to the Shelf lakes. Occasionally you see a few folks backpacking or fishing the gap lakes along the way, but I've never seen anyone out there. Intermediate level, the start is steep, but well worth it.

Shelli:
Wind River Range. Epic day hikes of 25 miles or more. Deep Creek and Ice Lakes and/or Jackass Pass-Cirque of Towers to Pinto Park. But don't tell anyone. : >

Depending on distance, er, Wind River Range, are easy, moderate or difficulty. Steep rugged trails, that's for sure.

Dustin:
I like the hike around north piney lake. It is moderate and there is lots of wildlife especially elk

Mindi:
A beautiful easy hike is the one around lower Green River Lake - the trail along the eastern side is fairly open, with awesome views of Square Top Mountain, through some aspen groves and open meadows. Return along the western shore through the evergreen trees and in the shade. Just be aware that the road up to the Lakes curves, so you'll feel “backwards” – east is to the left! Watch for flickers, weasels (ermine), moose, mule deer, and even bighorn sheep on top of the mountains. A warning, you won’t want to stop at the end of the lake; bring a lunch and spend the day continuing up the valley – it remains “easy” to the upper lake.

Shona:
Yellowstone and Medicine Wheel

Lorri:
Devil's Tower, Snowy Range and Vedauwoo!

Luke:
Yellowstone, or the mountains in Douglas!!!

Kim:
Penrose Trail above Story.:)(Advanced)..UP the mountain that is...down is easier!

Janice:
Baggot Rocks! Beginner.

Wherever you choose to go, and however hard you choose to push yourself, there are a few basic supplies that everyone should take when venturing into the Wyoming wilderness. These include:

     - Shoes with good traction
     - Sunscreen
     - Water
     - Layered clothing
     - Snacks
     - Camera

Click here for more on hiking and guide businesses.

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.” - John Muir

Bike an "Epic" Trail System

2010-04-12T12:28:00.000-07:00

Taking on trails across the Wyoming of today is much easier. Contrary to the beliefs of some in metro settings Wyoming does have running water, electricity, and all the amenities of modern city life. It’s just that the cities and towns here are a bit spread out and you’ll want to have plenty of water and snacks in the car with you.

One Wyoming trail system is gaining in prominence among those who like to bike. A favorite trek for mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians in recent years, the Curt Gowdy State Park Trail System, has now been recognized nationally as a world class mountain bike destination. The International Mountain Bicycling Association has given the trail system an “Epic” designation - Wyoming’s first and only such honor. Located less than 30 minutes west of Cheyenne (about two hours’ drive north from Denver), these trails run along and among unique rocks and trees to challenge skilled bikers yet remain maneuverable for the novice.

The Legacy of Chris LeDoux

2010-03-08T07:54:00.000-08:00

Chris LeDoux left us five years ago. And he left a lasting legacy. Read more about it on our Rodeo Hand blog.

Adventures in Geocaching: The First Day

2010-02-01T12:57:00.000-08:00

Film, Arts & Entertainment Specialist Colin Stricklin gives an account of his first foray into geocaching.

One of my old college housemates now lives in Zushi, Japan. There’s a U.S. Navy base out there, and combined with her husband’s occupation that makes my friend Katie a Navy Wife. She’s adventurous enough, an amateur photographer with a taste for travel, weird foods and new friends. But even so, being a stranger in a strange land it was a bit daunting for her to head off-base. There was a great big foreign country out there; one full of non-English speakers and strange road signs and soy sauce, and going out into it required an act of courage. If you’ve ever seen Lost in Translation you’ll know what I’m talking about. My friend Katie was playing the home game.

Meanwhile I’m sitting at my new job in Cheyenne, Wyoming. I’d moved in fresh out of college, an East Coast guy with a typical East Coast attitude—What’s there to do out here? Geeze…. I found myself in my own foreign land, one filled with sagebrush and pickup trucks and cowboy boots, and looking back now I realize how intimidated I really was.

So Katie and I commiserated. Phone calls are a bit pricey across the Pacific, but that’s what social media is for. Our Facebook posts looked something like this:

Katie is bored on-base.

Colin is bored in Cheyenne.

Katie might see a movie later.

Colin Yeah, movie. Sounds fun. >:[

This might have gone on for any length of time, both of us declaring our boredom at one another and doing our best impersonation of the buzzards from Disney’s The Jungle Book. Thankfully though, Katie is quite a lot smarter than me. With her husband at sea for weeks and months at a time, she needed some sort of pastime.

And she found it.

Suddenly I was receiving incredible correspondence. Photography of shrines and parades came pouring in, along with stories of hidden gardens and temples and giant robots (yes, giant robots. It is Japan after all). And when I asked Katie what finally got her outside the base, her answer was a single word: Geocaching.

If you haven’t heard of this incredible game, the concept is simple. It’s a giant scavenger hunt, a high-tech game of hide and seek with hundreds of thousands of players worldwide. Players hide “caches” at points of interest—an ammo box in a hollowed log; a Tupperware container beneath a bridge; a film canister magnetized to a railroad sign—and then post the GPS coordinates online. All you need to play is a GPS device of your own, an internet connection, and a pair of hiking boots. And since I already had the latter two, it was just a quick search through amazon.com to get the former.

So 5-7 business days later my new eTrex Venture HC arrived and I was off. It turns out there are over 600 geocaches within a 50 mile radius of Cheyenne, and with quick coordinate download from http://www.geocaching.com/ and a few friends in tow, I set out on my first geocaching expedition.

The “Go To” arrow on the device works just like a compass. You simply walk where it points and try to pay attention to your surroundings. So our first coordinates took us to the Cheyenne Botanic Garden. We sniffed around a bit, but even with coordinates telling us exactly where to look, we came up empty. As it turns out, even the best GPS unit is only accurate to within ten feet or so. And if you compound that inaccuracy with the cache hider’s margin of error, you suddenly find yourself looking in an area 40 feet square. For something as small as a pill bottle or matchbox, that’s a lot of room to hide. Of course, it wasn’t a total loss. Even in winter the gardens are pretty, and the greenhouse is still plenty green. Not to mention that we found a bit of swag on the ground. Since it was MLK Day to boot, we’d also found our team name—Team Equality.

It was a short trip from the gardens across Carey Avenue to our next destination. The coordinates led Team Equality to a statue of famed pro bull rider Lane Frost. The statue stands outside the Cheyenne Frontier Days Old West Museum, with the CFD stadium rising in the background. With that setting it doesn’t take a whole lot of imagination to picture Lane Frost in action, the huge bull bucking and twisting beneath him, the roar of a rodeo crowd on a hot July day…

But there was no time for rodeo or history. The light was already beginning to fade, and there was geocaching to be done!

Unfortunately, the cache wasn’t an easy one, and despite a thorough search of the area, Team Equality turned up exactly bupkis. I’ll be back to this one though. We spent a good while looking, but there may be a stone or two left unturned. On to the next cache!

And this one was a bit of a hike. We parked near the Cheyenne Country Club and began to hoof it. Being January there weren’t many golfers out, even for a strangely spring-like day. There were however a few ice fishermen out on Lake Absaroka, and these waved gamely at us as we tromped on our way.

As we neared our destination, the GPS counted down for us: 00.21 miles…00.14 miles… 495 feet…now approaching destination. The cache was called “behind the scenes,” and while I don’t want to give it away, I will say that that clue is what found it for us.

Team Equality had finally found a cache. We hastily scribbled our names and the date on the logbook inside. We also traded our MLK Jr. picture for a nifty velociraptor coin. That’s one of the rules of geocaching: if you take something out, you’ve got to put something back in. Of course, the other big rule is Don’t let the muggles see you. If non-geocaching types spot you fiddling around with hidden containers, chances are they’ll come over and investigate. And if they don’t know what it is they’ve found, chances are they’ll move the cache, spoiling it for the rest of the would-be treasure hunters. So don’t be seen!

In any case, since the sun was setting, the temperature was dropping, and we were overdue for some food, we headed back to the car. Some celebration was in order, and the world’s best breakfast burritos and green chili were calling my name.

Sure the ambience leaves something to be desired, but the food at Rodolfo’s does not disappoint. Have you ever had Horchata? It’s a Mexican rice drink, and it tastes exactly like you’re drinking a cinnamon roll. Seriously. Go try some now.

So it was with a full belly and a big silly grin on my face that my first day of geocaching came to a close. I’d successfully busted out of my there’s nothing to do funk and got out on the town. Cheyenne has quite a lot to offer, and you’d better believe I’ll be back out there next weekend. So until next time, get yourself a GPS and get out there!

And to my onetime housemate: thanks for getting me up off my butt Katie. It’s been good times.

Find the Silence

2010-01-04T14:40:00.000-08:00

There are places in Wyoming where no vehicle can go. Where no vehicle should go. Places where the silence is so complete that the quiet actually fills your ears, where the smallest sound can echo for miles. You can become part of that silence with a cross country ski or snowshoe escape. As you venture out into the open, the size of the sky and forest and fields presses down on you. You realize what a small part of the world you are. At the same time, the sound of your breath and the squeak of the snow and the swish of your winter clothing combine and expand into a symphony that fills the void.

And then you are the whole world.

The great thing about snowshoeing and cross country skiing is that, with a little training, you can safely experience the quiet of nature in pairs or small groups. Anyone, even those of us who really shouldn’t venture far from the safety of our cubicles, would be hard pressed to get injured in these mild winter sports.
I’ll admit that I spend much of my time in cross country skis sitting on the side of the trail, pretending to look at animal tracks at the far side of the meadow. Pretending like I wanted to sit down – quickly and with windmilling arms – to take in the beauty. Luckily, there usually ARE tracks at the far side of the meadow. Luckily, there is much beauty to take in. If your concern for injury extends to your pride, snowshoes are a fantastic option. I’d bet you have that walking thing down already.

Also worth noting in this ode to cross country skiing and snowshoeing…you can do it anywhere there is snow. Even just a schmidgen of snow. While you might earn yourself a stern look from officers of the law if you tried to ski down a sidewalk, city parks are great places to take the family for an afternoon of shoeing or skiing fun. And that symphony of sound – the breath and the squeaking snow and the swishing parka – will expand and fill the air around you. Even in the city you will find the silence. Find the solitude. Find that you are the world.

The third thing that makes snowshoeing and cross country skiing worth doing: it is one-activity-fits-all-vacations. If you only have a couple of hours, you can fit it into and afternoon. If you have days, you can go the distance and travel with guides from yurt to yurt across the back country. If you’ve mastered gliding across the meadow you can journey up and down hills, over the river and through the woods. If you are into trends you can become a snowshoe racer – it happens to be one of the fastest growing winter sports.

And last, many a post ago I mentioned that Wyoming is for the dogs. So are cross country skiing and snowshoeing. Check around when you are planning your vacation to see if you pooch can play in the powder with you.

There are whole lists of “do”s for a safe and satisfying ski or shoe trip. Those include learning how to layer your clothing, taking water, knowing how to spot an avalanche hazard. And, as with all recreational sports, there are rules and etiquette to ensure the maximum enjoyment for all involved. For these reasons, the best way to enjoy your first forays into cross country skiing or snowshoeing is with a guide. Wyoming has many professionals that can take you safely into the silence. And let you be the whole world.

A Sunny Day in Laramie Town

2009-12-09T07:28:00.000-08:00

Laramie is, perhaps, best known as the home of the University of Wyoming. But the town is more than screaming sports fans painted brown and gold. It is more than a giant foam cowboy leading cheers at the games. Laramie – maybe in response to the thousands of poor college students that roam its streets – has an abundance of free or inexpensive entertainment and affordable dining options.

Before a recent trip to Laramie to “play tourist”, I polled Wyoming Tourism’s Facebook friends to find out what the “must sees” were. Taking their advice, we started with lunch at Bernie’s. I don’t know who came up with the Green Chili Dog, but I love him and pledge to him the eternal devotion of my taste buds. This culinary delight is a hot dog wrapped in a flour tortilla and fried very lightly before being smothered in chili. And the price was very nice. Lips still aflame from the “mild” chili, we headed to museums to fill our chilly winter afternoon.

The great thing about universities is the abundance of museums on every topic imaginable. We saw hand carved doohickeys and big foam doodads at the UW Fine Arts Center. We looked at things from the ground in the geological museum – a museum so beloved, I might add, that the idea of closing it to the public due to budget cuts resulted in an uproar. The UW Foundation has provided funding to keep the facility open with slightly restricted hours.

After looking to the ground, we looked to the sky at the UW planetarium. Open to the public with shows on most Fridays as well as special events, this is a great chance to figure out just what you’re looking at in that big black Wyoming sky. And, really, $3 is a great price to get your learn on.

Between the sandstone and stars there is, of course, an endless array of things to study. And the museums in which to study them. Bugs. People of the past. People of the present in their natural habitat – the student union…

Get more information about all that is available at the university by visiting www.uwyo.edu.

If you stray from campus, it won’t take long to figure out that some guy named Ivinson did something pretty spectacular in Laramie. His name is on streets and buildings and medical centers. Find out why by visiting The Laramie Plains Museum which is inside the historic Ivinson Mansion. Ten dollars is a small price to pay for a guided tour of the mansion and stories about Laramie in the 19th century, the journey of this beautiful building and the man (and wife) so beloved by plaques.

Find out more at www.laramiemuseum.org.

We learned. We walked. We needed coffee.

Taking another cue from our Facebook friends, we stopped at Coal Creek Coffee for a cuppa joe. The coffee shop is in an old building in downtown Laramie that has a lot of character. And the character that served us coffee barely blinked an eye when I asked him what I wanted. He steered me toward a steaming hot coffee that, I dare say, could have gotten up and given us a guided tour of the area. It was perfect!

Check them out at www.coalcreekcoffee.com.

Refreshed by the stiff cup of coffee, we stiffened our spines to brave the cold walk around downtown. However, even with snowy sidewalks and frosty breath, our stroll was quite delightful. The tall historic buildings soften the wind and break the potential chill. And, since Laramie does not have a mall, every door opens to an interesting store or service providers so shoppers are never outside for long. To add to the appeal of downtown walking, Laramie has a convenient parking lot nestled in the corner of the downtown area. There is no more glorious thing than free…all day…parking. Only the weight of many, many, MANY books from the numerous new and used book stores could bring my shopping to an end.

Taking one last tidbit from Wyoming Tourism’s Friends, we settled at Altitude Chophouse & Brewery to refuel after our long day of seeing and doing. A testament to the quality of their food, we had to wait 15 minutes to be seated on a wintery Tuesday night. The investment of time was well worth it. Our steaks were perfectly cooked. And hugemongous. The beer was dark and smoooooth. The atmosphere was lively but not in that in-your-face-you-didn’t-come-here-for-conversation kind of way. It was a perfect wrap up to a perfect day.

Don’t look at this website unless you’re ready to drool: www.altitudechophouse.com. You’re thinking about looking, aren’t you? Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

The list of suggestions from Friends was long and the day was too short. There are many restaurants and activities that come with recommendations from the people who have been there, loved that. For a complete list of entertainment and dining options, check out www.visitlaramie.org. While you’re there, find a place to stay the night. Because one day isn’t nearly enough.

See all the pictures from this day in Laramie here.

Still reading? Okay, here’s the thing…

This is a blog about visiting Laramie in the winter. Thus, there are two very big omissions. Locals, don’t write me nasty emails! The Wyoming Territorial Prison and the Nici Self Museum are closed in the winter. If you are lucky enough to be in the Laramie area in the summer, these are great additions to your itinerary. But add another day...you’ll want time to take it all in.

Congratulations, Casper!

2009-10-19T15:38:00.000-07:00

The College National Finals Rodeo and Casper Wyoming won the 2009 SportsTravel Awards for the Best Multi-Sport or Multi-Discipline Event at the Collegiate Level! If you would like to read the press release... please see the Casper CVB website at www.casperwyoming.info. Thank you for all who supported and voted for the CNFR.

National Parks are "the Best Idea" this Fall!

2009-09-01T11:27:00.000-07:00

Check out our newest newsletter here to find inspiration in anticipation of Wyoming's lovely rise to fall.

Kindness

2009-08-26T13:00:00.000-07:00

A Wyoming ranch is thriving on kindness toward animals. Co-Directors Dr. Karen Straight and Matt Farwell share their story about the ranch where research animals are given sanctuary and once nurtured, offered for adoption. The location near Hartville, Wyoming is the only one of its kind in the U.S. and information is available at: kindnessranch.org

The Hills Are Alive...

2009-08-24T08:30:00.000-07:00

Not to get all Julie Andrews on you, but the hills are alive with the sound of music this month. Seriously, if you spun around like Ms. Andrews – arms and skirt flying – you’d run you fingers up against a Wyoming music festival. No matter what type of music you’re looking for, there’s something for you here.

The Happy Jack Music Festival occurs in the middle of July. If you play an instrument, and you’re into chilling out and doing some freestyle acoustic jamming, this is the festival for you. The 2009 event included workshops on songwriting, guitar, dobro, the lap dulcimer and harmonica. There are also jam sessions broken out according to skill level. And, while the grownups are playing, the kids can build their own instruments at a workshop and play them at the sing-along that follows. After a day of play, attendees can sit back and enjoy regional artists on the stage.

Happy Jack Music Festival is between Laramie and Cheyenne. It is free to all attendees – even dogs. Camping fees for the weekend and concession prices go to Friends of Curt Gowdy State Park. If you aren’t a camper, shuttles are available. Check it out at www.hjmusicfestival.com.

Unfortunately, you may have to choose between Happy Jack and the Beartrap Summer Festival which is always the third weekend of July on Casper Mountain. Thousands of music lovers converge on the mountain to see regional bands during the day and well known bands such as Asleep at the Wheel and the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band in the evening. This venue also provides numerous opportunities to get your bling on or deck yourself out in Beartrap duds with several rows of vendor booths.

Beartrap Summer Festival costs $15 on Saturday, $20 on Sunday or $30 for the whole shebang. Grandma and the kids can get in at discounted rates. Click here to see their cool new website: www.beartrapsummerfestival.com.

Get hip to Nowoodstock, aka the Ten Sleep Music Festival, which takes place at the beginning of August at Vista Park in Ten Sleep. This is music that makes you feel the wind in your hair and the sun on your face even when you’re standing inside. It’s a feel-good mash of indie country classic rock with a twist of tongue-in-cheek lyricism. The 2009 headliners were Palmer Divide, Chuck Pyle, Spawning Fondness, Aftershock and local favorite The Jalan Crossland Band. And how could anyone pass up a chance to find out what Prickly Pair & The Cactus Chorale play?

Cost for the Ten Sleep Music Festival is $15 on Friday and Sunday, $20 for Saturday, or $30 for a weekend pass. Active and recent military get two free passes. Dig it at www.nowoodstock.com.

When he hit it big, critics said Jonny Lang was too young to know the blues (he might not know ‘em, but he sure can SING ‘em). And certainly it is hard to have the blues while vacationing in Wyoming. But don’t let that stop you from attending the Snowy Range Music Festival on Labor Day weekend. With a couple of stages at the Albany County Fairgrounds in Laramie, this festival provides a constant barrage of bluesy, rocky, souly and country goodness to please your ears from Noon to 2 a.m. on Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

Then put on your boogie shoes for the “C and W Barn Dance” on Saturday and Sunday night. Moorcroft’s Chancey Williams & The Younger Brothers Band has been playing everywhere this summer – here’s your chance to be able to say you’ve seen them too.

Snowy Range Music Festival costs $40 per day or $85 for 3-day pass. Get a preview of the tunes and find more information at www.snowyrangemusicfestival.com.

So you’re thinking that this is not so many concerts? You could definitely swing your arms and, at least six times out of ten, NOT hit a music festival? Well TAKE THIS, doubters!

Grand Targhee Resort hosts Targhee Fest on the third weekend of July and the Bluegrass Festival the third weekend of August (www.grandtarghee.com).

The Grand Teton Music Festival holds ongoing events during July and August (www.gtmf.org).

Wyoming’s largest FREE music festival, The Oyster Ridge Music Festival, takes place in Kemmerer on the last Friday of July (www.oysterridgemusicfestival.com). In 2009 this concert pulled 9,000 attendees – not bad for a town with 2,500 residents!

Pine Haven hosted the first Keyhole Rhythm & Ribs Festival at the beginning of August (www.pinehavenchamber.org/rhythmribs.htm).

AND, while not exactly music festivals, my friends on Facebook pointed out that there are “music in the park” events in Rawlins, Lander, Riverton and Cheyenne. And Cheyenne Frontier Days. And Blues and Brews in Rock Springs. And bands on every patio at every bar all summer. And…stop swinging your arms, you’re gonna hit Chancey Williams.

To Be Fair

2009-08-06T11:01:00.000-07:00

When you think about 4-H, you probably think about kids with goats and rabbits. But, being a city kid in Rock Springs, Wyoming – no, no, go ahead and laugh at my assertion that Rock Springs is a city; I’ll wait. Done? Okay – the closest I ever came to a “livestock project” was my cat (who, I might add, won a big purple grand champion ribbon…never mind she was the only cat project in Sweetwater County). But the centerpiece of every 4-H experience is the county fair, where even the most urban kid gets to be rural for a week.

Ah, the fair. A treat to all the senses – let’s start with the sights. From dawn to dusk a fair-goer can view displays on everything from rocks to rutabagas. From quilts to cuizanarts. After you talk to the sheriff and pick up your requisite plastic deputy’s badge, head over to the shark tank, then pick out some faux silver “bling” with a butterfly or a skull. This year I saw a guy climb into a giant balloon in Rock Springs. I saw a teeny tiny girl handling a great big horse in Laramie County. And, though I didn’t make it to the Fremont County Fair, the pictures of trained bison climbing onto a horse trailer make me wish I’d been there.

Moving from sights to smells, you just can’t beat the scent of fresh hay in the livestock barn. And while you’re leaning in close to examine the biggest bunny EVER the hay aroma mixes with that of alfalfa pellets. It’s a sweet, heady mixture of smells, almost solid, that fills your lungs and sticks to the inside of your nose. Then you leave the barn and cleanse your pallet on fresh, Wyoming air before heading to the midway. Here you can assault your aroma sensors with…

…fair food. Funnel cake. Indian tacos. Pretty much anything that can be skewered, fried or grilled, and handed to you on a stick. Turkey legs, which provide their own stick. Ice cream. Pizza. Elephant ears. A bunch of different meats shoved into buns. Kettle corn. Carmel apples. Cotton ca… …sorry, I had to run back out to the fairgrounds.

In addition to the delightful full feeling you experience after eating your way through the midway, many fairs have carnivals where you can take your stomach to new heights, spin it around, jump it up and down…

And then we come to sounds. You can’t get more rural than the call of an auctioneer selling of the 4-H kids’ goat or beef project. The same stands will be filled later that day with crowds cheering on the cutting teams as they race the clock. The crush of cars in the demo derby. In the midway you’ll hear children laughing at a clown or magician. And there are concerts. From favorite local acts to national stars, most counties provide a soundtrack for your fair fun.

Most county fairs are wrapping up, having taken place in late July or the first weeks of August. They have to be completed because all those hopeful 4-H kids want to pile onto buses headed to the Wyoming State Fair which starts on Friday, August 7. The State Fair is a county fair…super sized. More rides. More barns. A constant barrage of entertainment options.

For $5 a day, you can roam the midway, see the exhibits and attend free concerts, clown acts and comedians. Grandstand events cost a little extra, but you can see miniature bull riding, BIG bull riding at the PRCA Extreme Bulls event, and a number of other special events. I don’t know what a “Rubber Chicken Race” is, but sure as heck I am heading up to Douglas on Saturday, August 15, to find out! I’d also like to see country singer John Anderson and the band Gloriana on Wednesday, August 12. Ooh, ooh! AND I want to go up to see Moorcroft’s Chancey Williams and the Younger Brother Band play (insert blatant plug for Wyoming sponsored cowboys signing autographs and handing out free swag, here) on the afternoon of Thursday, August 13. I wonder if I can get a bunk in the 4-H dorms…

For more information on the events and super-sweet ticket packages available for the full fair experience, check out the Wyoming State Fair’s website (while you’re there, go play with the singing horses in the kids’ section) at www.wystatefair.com.